The Subaru Engine Thread

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by monkeyvanwestybike, Oct 27, 2016.

  1. After my bus lunched my longer 4th gear, cogbox fitted a heavy duty 4th in mine. He said he usually puts them in drag boxes, probably similar to what moons mentioned I know it was straight cut. Pete said it would be noisier, but tbh as I don't have any soundproofing in my cab I can't tell the difference.
     
    art b and Moons like this.

  2. DSCF2524.JPG


    extra long ratio 5 rib gearbox meets 2.0 scooby engine ..:cool:
     
    scottrs, Dubs, Moons and 3 others like this.
  3. What gearbox is everyone using with their scooby engines and have you had them upgraded/given longer ratios
     
  4. 3 rib gearbox with extended 3rd and 4th
     
  5. Cheers pretty standard then.
     
  6. Dubs

    Dubs Sponsor

    Standard 3 rib on mine, with 195/80/15 rear tyres. Cruising in top gear is the same revs as a six rib going by previous threads. :thumbsup:
     
  7. which engine have you got? does the 2.0 subaru engine have enough torque?
     
  8. Dubs

    Dubs Sponsor

    Yes, mine is an ej20 dude. Low down torque isn't amazing being 16v, but is perfectly acceptable. I have improved it a bit by adding a second silencer, and a reducer in the intake (I can't decide if that made any difference or not..:thinking:
     
  9. Do you have a picture of that setup? I usually like those big tyres on a bay

    Also I was wondering if any of you had their Subaru engine rebuilt?
    Mine engine is a pre 98 ej20 (the old version) installed in the van more than 15 years ago by TSR (a very early conversion according to one of their guy). So the engine is at least 20 years old (and I suspect it to be closer from 25/30).
    Last year I had this setup tidied up by the Fellows (radiator underneath and ecu). When driving the van Perry said the engine was still pulling okay for its age.
    However there are a few issues:
    - Cut off when cold: The engine starts without any problem when cold but will cut of if not kept under load until warm.
    - Hectic idling: Again this is happening mainly when the engine is cold. It sometime start shaking weirdly. It can be felt from the cab.
    - I suspect a worn head gasket since my coolant has been going down lately.
    - Add to that the normal missing horses for a motor of this age.

    With all that in mind what would be the most sensible option? Just swap out the old engine for a newer one (but untested)? Or go for a engine rebuild?

    Thanks,
     
    Dubs likes this.
  10. Moons

    Moons Moderator

    The engines are so cheap I'd just swap one out.

    If a rebuild is say £1000, you could have bought 4 engines for that...or buy one to swap out and learn to rebuild yours in parallel.
     
    agaric likes this.
  11. Dubs

    Dubs Sponsor

    I will take a pic tomorrow in daylight if I remember. They are fairly chunky AT tyres, so may not be to everyone's taste, but they suit my rough and ready old bus.

    Have you run diagnostics on your engine? It sounds to me like you may have a fault with your Idle air control valve, or possibly one of the sensors. Is your check engine light coming on? If you have they SSM plugs in the loom, connect them up and see what codes it brings up. I did have similar idling probs on mine which turned out to be the IAC valve playing up. After seeing how much they where for early EJ20's, I took it apart and cleaned it out following instructions found via Google. It now idles fine and no codes show up. :thumbsup:

    Its definitely worth eliminating sensor / electronic faults before you start rebuilding, as you may end up with the same fault on your shiney rebuilt motor.
     
    agaric likes this.
  12. Hahaha! That's a fair point.

    So I think your diagnostic is spot on for part of the problem. I have checked all the usual location for the IAC valve but couldn't find it. I think it has simply been removed from the engine (I remember the Fellows told me TSR had the tendency to remove "non critical" parts). So I guess I'm now on the market for an early ej20's IAC valve.
    How much are they usually?
    As you say I'll tackle this job first and then see how the engine feels.
    Thanks!
     
  13. Dubs

    Dubs Sponsor

    I dont think it would run without a IACV, although I could be wrong. When I was looking, I think they where about £300, compared to about £30 for a later one..

    Have you looked near the back of the engine, left side as you look in the noisey cupboard, tucked away on the lower part of the inlet manifold?

    [​IMG]

    The grey plastic bit with the wiring plug on it is the top of it, and its got a fat rubber pipe that runs up to the intake near the throttle body

    [​IMG]

    Your throttle body may look differant to mine as thats a RJES throttle body reverser, not sure what TSR used 15 years ago, but there should be the fat pipe there somewhere... the other end of the fat pipe should connect to the IACV.

    Oh, I remembered to get a pic of my van with the tall rear tyres on today..

    [​IMG]

    If you post up a pic or 2 of your engine it may help diagnosis. Just thought, did the problem start after the new radiator was fitted?
     
    Moons and Flakey like this.
  14. Taking my bus into Fellows next couple weeks 2.0 litre scooby and gearbox rebuild, what does anyone reckon my twin carb 1.7 motor is worth, essentially everything except the gearbox. Runs ok, last trip in 2016 Chamonix and back.
    Thanks
     
  15. When the coolant system pipes are run on these conversions do they hang down under the chassis much?
     
  16. What you getting done gearbox wise?
     
  17. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]

    Not far mate. Just enough to clear the torsion tube.
     
  18. What size is pipey? Exactly..,

    Have a good night out with Caines the other week?
     
  19. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]

    About this size:

    IMG_2031.JPG

    Carnage mate!
     
    StuF likes this.

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