The All New, New "What have you done to your Bay today" thread.

I got precut membranes from Madmatz, you could cut your own, but, at the time, it didn't seem worth the extra effort, they aren't, or weren't, madly expensive.

 

Many thanks.

 

In the old days, when you bought a PVC dust sheet from B&Q it was substantial plastic sheet. Enough to cut out about ten door membranes for a tenner. Fitted using decent 3M double sided tape, it has served me well.

These days like everything in B&Q, direct from China and ten microns thick and wont stop a drop of paint from two metres.

 

Re-did the firmware on the dash multifunction display as I had accidentally made the settings memory clear itself every time you turned on the ignition. At the same time decided to use "wear levelling" to wear out the flash memory 1000 times slower.

Then decided to have a look at why the windscreen wiper motor killed the windscreen timer - it produces a high speed spike of well over 200 volts on the "fast" motor connection when the relay cuts the power and shorts the motor winding. Which then couples into all the neatly cable tied together wiring running past.. Tomorrow I will find out the 18 volt Transient Voltage Supressor (TVS) diodes and fit some to the motor - TVS like Zeners but better designed to absorb massive energy spikes.

 

£5 for a pair, not bad.

 

Builders visqueen ( sp) sorted mine out.

 

Surprising how long little jobs take, but one new rev counter in place and working...finally

 

Good job!

Does yours have a second or two delay before working when you start up?

 

Thanks Mark. Yes it does wake up after a second or two...quite odd.

 

It's probably assuming it's connected to an old MG, which take a good half hour to get started.

 

Mine does that too. I saw on an MG forum that it it's quite common - each has its own delay time someone said. Mine is about 3 or 4 secs I think. I talk to mine and congratulate it when it wakes up, I think it appreciates it.

 

I think a lot of old MG kit suffers from prostate trouble, like the owners. Just keep trying.

 

Spake the voice of experience?

That extra bit of pushing, eh? Takes ages to stop too. So I hear! I mean I was talking about the MG of course. Honest.

 

Nowt wrong with my trouser parts, sir.

 

Nice low tickover there Chris.

Fitment looks neat too.

Glad you got it sorted.


Stirlingmoz

 

Cheers Pete (@stirlingmoz). Thanks for the bracket, and although I didn't use it, it helped me design what I eventually used.
Ta very much and hope to see to you at TE

 

Probably an old electrolytic capacitor in the timing circuit in the gauge on its last legs. ..

 

Yesterday - decided to find real TDC on my engine ..



Fencing wire with M3x0.5 thread tapped on it. The wire is soft enough and the metal of the gauge is hard enough to screw it into the Imperial threaded gauge.

Yes the timing marks on the new Policarter brand Brazilian crank pulleys are 7 and 15 degrees BTDC. Two small notches on the back .

That is the same as what I thought when I tested via pencil in spark plug hole method and measurements on the pulley from the keyway..

This time poked the gauge in to No3 so I could see the dial and it leant on the foam seal and stayed still enough to clearly see TDC .

That gauge was a tenner on eBay just because it reads thousandths of an inch rather than 0.01mm..

I noticed the "pre timed" paint marks were way off on the distributor.. previous timing light with analog dial failed by misreading badly . Probably why my engine blew up - now using a basic flashy light Sealey..

 

Mercer make ...should be quality , was it expensive ?