Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by top banana racing, Aug 27, 2015.
Been away in it the weekend, just home and gave it a clean.
I thought you had louvered windows all down the side, including the cab. Then I zoomed in on the fence behind.
Would be cool though.
now go and cut the grass
Yeah, dunno. I did give it squirt once but no guarantees here!
Took my old home made door panels off and hoovered out the dry flakey rust. Coated with rust converter. Tomorrow I’ll add fresh wax then fit my new JK brown trims.
On about 18 miles of my ‘Run In’ period… Stopped for a tea and watched the sun for a bit.
Finally off with the old crap and preparing for new …
Jesus does anyone have crusty old black gasket removal tips!!
Sounds like they could have been Empi fibre ones, which I like precisely because they weld themselves to the head. lol
Bung up the inlets and be patient... or if you do find a way to unstick them please let me know.
Used cotton wool balls soaked in various fluids and dabbed onto the old gasket... dont really think any of them helped.
One side done, moderate panic moment when I realised old M8/13mm nuts couldnt be tightened due to inference with the socket/manifold... found the bag of M8/12mm nuts CB performance supplied and carried on as normal
The M8-but-smaller-on-the-outside nuts certainly give a much-needed bit of clearance. Think I got mine from CSP.
Changed the oil and filter as a treat for it for letting me helicoil the head without a hitch. Good bus, pat.
The oil was pretty clean so I didn't bother draining cooler and pipes this time. I've possibly not even covered 1,000 miles since last time but I can't remember.
Tomorrow the boat stern tube stuffing gland. @theBusmonkey have you ever squashed yours up a bit? I ran low on grease and now the greaser pumps it straight through with little effort. Leaks like a sieve if I turn the prop with the engine. It looks like it hasn't been done before so I thought I'd give it a go before the death-defying repack while afloat. Any tips on judging how much to tighten it?
If you have a bilge area around the stuffing gland, rig one of those 12 volt bilge pumps downhill of the gland. I have replaced a Volvo shaft seal on a one inch shaft in a 1.5 inch hole about a foot underwater- have to slip the whole thing off the prop shaft and slip the new one on..just a lip seal and cutlass bearing in one assembly. The bilge pump kept up perfectly ..
I've got a good bilge pump but no bulge pumps.
From reading, seems if I pump it full of grease first I should be able to pull out the packing without any water coming in. I kind of feel just tightening it up might do more harm (to the shaft) than good in the long run so I should bite the bullet and restuff.
I've done all 3 of the following..
1, Tightened up the 2 nuts a dadge to clamp the packing...no problem at all and in fact its surprising how close the flanges can come together.
2, Opened the whole thing up in the water and put more packing over the top of the old...again no problem but I think it's recommended to do this only once. A couple of overlapping cuts is plenty.
3, Repacked the gland with completely new stuffing after self tappering out the old stuff. Whilst on dry land!
What I haven't done, coz I don't have the minerals and it's a bloody big hole, is done a complete refresh in the water.
Why would you
In all seriousness there are 2 at least sizes of gland packing and unless you are 100 percent sure I wouldn't take the risk in the water.
What I would do is stuff a couple of overlapping cuts of the graphite rope (or whatever it is) over the top of what's in there and gently tighten it down. That'll be perfectly good enough once it's greased to last until the boat is next slipped. Then you can do it relaxed and with a cup of tea on hand rather than wondering if you'll be calling RCR to refloat you!
So nip your nuts up first Steve until it stops dripping and pump the gland full of fresh Morris K99
I wasn't going to take the prop shaft out, just the stuffing. Lots of people say it's fine if you pump grease first, I guess it goes the other way up the tube too. Why wouldn't you? I'm not paying to slip it just for that and there's a 2 year wait at the shot blast/2-pac place which I haven't even booked.
It'll be fine if you just tighten the nuts up a bit. If you were planning on loads of cruising hours then maybe have a go.
It'll also be fine if you pop 2 pieces over whats already there.
Look at where the grease line enters the gland and take a view if you're really determined to replace the whole lot in the water and that will indicate if the grease is pumped prop side or engine side of the packing. I suspect it'll be engine side and that means you'll have to dig through any grease you pump in to remove the packing.
I'm not saying it isn't possible, it is. But is it absolutely necessary...
Looking at photos of the exact same one I'm fairly sure it's never been adjusted since it was installed. What should be a lock nut is the wrong side of the plate because there wasn't enough stud to use it otherwise so there's stacks of adjustment there. My main worry is how hard/polished the packing now is which is impossible to see. I probably did 4 hours knowing how it was and when you x the revs by the time, that's a lot of unlubricated action, 1/4 million revs maybe.
So I'll try tightening it and see how long it lasts. It's one of those things I don't have a feel for because I haven't done it yet - by this time tomorrow it'll be...
Don't worry about the polished packing. That can be over-packed as I said. It's the shaft that can get cut up through lack of lube (morris' finest).
I'm sure it'll be fine. All you really need to do is stop the drip until it's out in a couple of years
Just thinking about cleaning Major after a weekend camping at VornyFest.
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