Subaru conversion start

Discussion in 'Modified Shizzle' started by pkrboo, Mar 27, 2017.

  1. Yep, that's the issue, if to user reading 84 but the fans are kicking in the gauge/sender may be giving you bad information
  2. Hey @pkrboo ,

    I remember reading somewhere (or you telling me) you knew someone that could exhaust for a scooby engine. Is that right?
    Do you have more details?

  3. Michael hausmann on Facebook, or vintage volkshaus on Facebook. There is another guy Matt knows but don’t remember his name.
    agaric likes this.
  4. Yes, it's Brett at every exhaust part near Redditch(I think)

    Pm and I'll give you details
  5. Thanks! I'll contact those guys (and Matt's guy too)

    Thanks. Will pm.
  6. redoxide

    redoxide Guest

    I had the option to buy a cheap subaru MOT fail. but my buddy sternly suggested that the van was better with the original engine.. complementing the quality of the bus and saying it would spoil it.. :rolleyes:

    By the time I got bck to the add the car was sold.. :( wasn't a big problem, I just wanted to secure a donor, I wasnt going to be tearing into the van this year.

    Any ways, Im still interested and resumed a search for a donor in the local area ..

    I do a lot of fabrication work on the Old School Ford Hot Rods that I mess around with and have sheet metal equipment including folders and such to do the fabrication work.

    Im looking at the Radiator housing and notice that the fans are mounted on top of the rad and the rad mount ox encases the rad and relies on the scoop to provide airflow.

    When the van is stationary, with the fans mounted as they are there is pretty limited airflow through the front of the rad which is faced off against the shroud..

    I was thinking of fabricating the the box from 1.6mm aluminium. with deep swages down each side to add strength and punching the rest full of louvres . to assist airflow and allow the fans to suck air through the rad core via the louvres.. Ive got a louvre press so no problem doing these in ali up to 1.6 mm

    Do you guys who run the subaru set up with RJES style rad set up think louvres in the pan would help with cooling / airflow ..

    Im just thinking ahead..
    just-paul likes this.
  7. Someone with more skill and who has fabbed the rads already might be able to help @Kruger but I don’t think louvres would help. The whole point in the scoop and box section is to force the air up into the rads. Surely louvres would allow air to escape.
    Kruger, Moons and Baysearcher like this.
  8. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]

    I have no louvres and it cools just fine.
  9. Been meaning to reply to this for while, hopefully @pkrboo doesnt mind the slight thread hijack...(My own thread is long overdue an update!)

    Still trying to visualise what you mean above.....”to assist airflow and allow the fans to suck air through the rad core via the louvres”

    The main issue I can see regarding the underslung radiators aside from getting air to it, (more so on low vans where a scoop is likely to get bashed) is getting the heat away from the radiator, particularly if side belly pans are fitted.

    Mounting the radiator up between the chassis rails means the hot air expelled naturally or as drawn up by the fans can only escape to the rear and sides - the Rjes rad pack shrouding pretty much boxes off the area towards the front crossmember/walkthrough but this could be improved with some added louvres in my opinion. (This also depends on whether the radiator pack is mounted Further to the front/rear of of the space between the chassis rails - seen both ways done, leaving the radiator pack as an open front/or an open rear, hopefully that makes sense!)

    The other potential problem area I considered were if the side belly pans were fitted - when fitted these almost create a sealed box between the floor/2 jacking points/chassis rail, directly where the hot expelled air is trying to exit, the late bay belly pans have 5 ventilation holes to aid drainage/airflow, but I think additional holes are required to increase the airflow, which is what I’ve done on the panels I’ll fit to mine. I’ll add a pic.. this is as I was marking out to punch some extra holes in the belly pans, the green box and x’s shows the only escape for the radiator’s hot air when side belly pans are fitted, the belly pans effectively trap all the expelled hot air.

    Last edited: May 23, 2019
    art b likes this.
  10. hi
    I think we must remove side plates ...
    piping does this in the right direction to save space!
    a nice scoop and it will do it ...
  11. I'm going to have to clean that oil filler cap at Tech Enders :eek:
    art b likes this.
  12. :D:D.... bored ? a luminous pen for your birthday ?
  13. No, proper paint, done by a pinstriper mate of mine
  14. I can see that, I was just joking, you can never resist tweaking ;-)
    pkrboo likes this.
  15. It's getting a full paint treatment this winter
    paradox likes this.
  16. Go on, admit it. You miss messing around inside the engine bay like you needed to when you had the type 4. Since you fitted the subaru there's been no reason to poke around in there and it feels strange.. so you're engineering reasons to open up the engine cover and fiddle with things? :D
    Pickles and davidoft like this.
  17. I'm in this more than with the type 4 I reckon. Always fiddling with something. The joys of modifying!!
    pgtips likes this.
  18. I try to keep the lid shut, working = happy and I know if I look at it or fiddle I'll break something !
  19. Yes true, I think @rob.e may be onto something.

    Only got three Subaru engines sat in the garage at the moment so I guess I should work on then

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