Steering box rebuild

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by volkswombat, May 4, 2018.

  1. Yeah defo seems to be copper
    Isn't there a copper bolt on the exhaust somewhere?
    Somebody must of used what they had to hand then.......thought it a bit odd!
    Will replace with regular!
  2. What's the point of copper bolts, is it's corrosion thing?
  3. On the exhaust yes but not on the steering. That bolts just looks a bit rusty to me, will a magnet stick to it? If it is copper replace it – and don’t use stainless steel.
    volkswombat and snotty like this.
  4. Another daft question

    This is what I removed from the drop arm

    I assume that isn't the correct washer and it's folded over out of bodgery?
    It can't be doing anything useful like that.....

    Only checking as I seem to remember somewhere else on the van was a washer or do.ething you had to fold over? Or have I made that up?
  5. It is meant to be there. It's a tab washer, one side folds up onto the nut as you have it and the opposite side folds down on to the flat bit of the drop arm. It stops the nut vibrating loose.
    paradox, 77 Westy and volkswombat like this.
  6. Pic?
  7. Defo copper, will put an ordinary one back in
  8. Aha so that'll be why there's a flat edge on the drop arm, :oops: clearer now that you've said it and I placed it all together:rolleyes: !!

    Tab washer on shopping list....
    Mark Darby likes this.
  9. What of ?
  10. You can re-use that one. Hammer it flat and turn it 90 degrees to fold where it hasn't been folded before.
    snotty likes this.
  11. Sorry, didn't see the pic. As Mark says, it's a tab washer, suppose to be there. Stick your box & arm in, do the nut up to (from memory) about 100 lb/ft and bend a new tab over to lock it.
  12. Iain McAvoy and volkswombat like this.
  13. Do I need to use nyloc nuts everywhere ?
    Like the nut and bolt on that steering Knuckle, and where the foot pedals bolt to the lever arms under the cab, etc etc
  14. Before I reinstall the steering box I will set the centre point with the marker.
    But is it also possible to get the adjustment of the other shaft (using the locknut on end plate) somewhere in the ball park, bearing in mind the box has been completely stripped so will be completely wrong?
    Or can it only be done once installed and connected up?
  15. Mark Darby likes this.
  16. You could stick the arm on, centre the box and give it a waggle until it stops clicking, but best done when it's on the bus IMHO. It's no hassle. You'll need the box on the bus to do the nut up fully anyway, as it needs a good old heave. Just centre the box and set the pointer/marker thing as a start.
  17. They're great :thumbsup:
    paul2590 and Mark Darby like this.
  18. These wear out just like Nylock, as they rely on the springiness of the nut metal, which is generally more ductile than a pukka locking washer

    There are some on my boat and they have stopped working, and nuts come undone even after a dink with a hammer on a hard surface
  19. Anybody know the torque setting for the knuckle on top of the input shaft?
    @Mark Darby maybe?

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