Whether you're new to vans or not this is an essential check you need to make. If you've just bought your first camper then check all the fuel hoses are fitted correctly - any smells of fuel are wrong and you should check the following 1) Remove engine If you have an upright engine you can't get to the firewall without taking the engine out. If replacing all fuel lines half of what you need to disconnect to take the engine out is done. Engine removal, even for a first timer takes about 1 hour. If you have a pancake engine with either twin or single carbs it is possible to remove the firewall without engine removal. 2) Remove firewall With the engine out remove the firewall. This will give you the chance to inspect the fuel tank for corrosion too. On a late bay it should look like this. 3) Fuel tank breather pipes On the top of the tank there are 2 stubby pipes sticking out. These are the breather pipes. All this does is take off the vapour as the fuel expands. These will criss cross behind the firewall, and come out into the expansion tanks, back into the engine bay where they are joined to a rubber T junction, a pipe then goes from here to the airfilter. Here the vapours are safely drawn back into the carb. These lead to the small expansion tanks you can see up inside the rear vents on your van. As the fuel gets hot (and it does) it needs to expand. Again, the small rubber pipes will perish over time, I found mine totally rotted and not connected. 4) Fuel filler hose All parts are available here http://www.vwheritage.com/vwh/Bus-Parts-1968-79/Fuel/Fuel-Filler/?templateID=vwh Here's a view of what it looks like with new parts images. Top is for the prototype window van (crossdresser also), bottom is late bay window If you get the petrol smell on a full tank or going round corners the most likely source will be the rubber pipe at the tank end. This is not cheap, I bought the long piece (26b) with the bend 2 years ago for £42, its now up to £49 but its a small price to pay to a) get rid of the stink and b) protect your bay from fuel leaks. 26a might be the part you need for a crossdresser. This is a very good quality part, if you have long bendy arms, or a small child you can fit this without removing the firewall - you go thru the paint tin hole. Here is the part for the body end. 5) Fuel lines Replace all fuel lines with high grade hose - you can now readily buy aerospace grade fuel lines from motorsport suppliers although normal good quality fuel lines are all good. Choose wisely though, pay for good quality from a reputable source 6) Connections It is very important to use the correct fuel clips for holding the pipes together securely - jubilee clips are NOT suitable for this job 7) Fuel filter It is not a good idea to have your plastic fuel filter in the engine bay. There are good quality glass fuel filters around which are better suited for use in the engine bay. I found that 2 filters in the system, one close to the base of the tank, and another directly after the fuel pump outlet (mines a pancake engine) was suitable, away from any direct ignition sources and heat, but also easy to check #8 Fuel tank sender If you have the firewall off check the fuel sender is nice and snug - again, these can come loose and the seals can perish 9) Maintenance Checking the fuel lines, connections and state of the rubber should form part of your routine maintenance checks on your van. Once you've done behind the firewall though you can pretty much forget about these bits. All of the above is little more than a mornings work, a day at most, and should cost no more than £80 all in. Yanking the engine out is a good opportunity to give the engine a good clean, tart up any wiring inside the engine bay, install engine bay lights etc Be warned, if you can smell fuel then that means its leaking!!