if you buy a worktop cutter from a tool shop, and use a 30mm guide bush, the distance you need is 8mm from cutter edge to edge of template. But worktop cutters are 1/2 inch and wont fit in a 14" router. So you will need a smaller fluting bit a two flute probably, and then set it up and measure from blade edge to outside of guide bush.
I had never used a router until I bought this £40 one from Screwfix, dead cheap and it's done all the laminate in my interior together with a whole host of other jobs I never thought I could do I also got a box of router bits from Wickes for £14, the guided bit for laminate broke after a few cuts because I didn't realise I needed to lubricate the roller. I got a replacement but for £4 from Toolcentre which I thought would break immediately, but no, it did the lot! http://www.screwfix.com/p/energer-e... Power Tools&gclid=COr92ve7rcQCFRHLtAodDBkA3g
In a past life, I used to make all the various jigs for foam inserts for flightcases....some were are real b*%£!^* to figure out, because not only did all the components have to fit really snug inside a given space, they were often different depths and needed finger holes or trailing cable recesses....that's why custom cases could run into £1000s....hours of prep this type of stuff:
Thats cool mate. I went to a pattern makers workshop the other day and that is an expensive trade.lol
When you fit your bits and plunge through the guide bush have a look and check that it's dead centre. I have a T4 or 5 that I use solely for my hinge jig and I have to make sure I always have the router pointing the same direction (switch to top of door). If not nothing lines up, the door hinges won't perfectly match the frame cuts. I thinks it's mainly down to play in the router posts, whatever it is the bit doesn't run in the centre of the bush.
I have the hitachi one that I'll be using for the interior eventually. Used it the other weekend to cut the roof bed boards.
