You need a good breaker bar Stan about 6ft will do it , i did mine and struggled , took it to a hgv garage and the lad there did it with a 3 ft breaker and made it look simple , horses for courses me thinks , he was used to things way tighter than 253lbs
He is going to do the MOT at the same time so its no big deal plus he is about 6foot odd and built like a brick !!!!! I have been doing too much heavy stuff recently think I am pooped out!
Worst case, it'll do the trick, but as above watch the stub axle threads. Easy to grind into them. Good luck!
Yes thanks - I normally do enough to get a small groove - then use a chisel to break it so to speak, 9 times out of 10 the grinder vibrations help to break it also,
Tbh dude if you want to risk your hub coming off while driving that's fine, but you shouldn't be advising others to do the same... Vw set the torque to 278ft/lb so that's what it should be at the minimum... Not like they pulled the number out of a hat or anything
If you re running alloys the little bolts might not even be there If you can have a right heave at the adjusters and clout the drum like mad with a hide mallet NOT a metal hammer. Can take ages
Presumably, if the adjuster's stuck, might be easier to take hub off. But as you say, not necessary just to take the drum off (unlike older VWs). Is the drum off all you need, Stan? Reason for the tightness of the rear nuts (and they're not really that tight if you work on HGVs or agricultural kit) is to stop the driveshaft splines chattering. All the to-ing and fro-ing during normal driving would wear them if they weren't done up tight. The nuts on my Golf are done up to 200lb/ft and they're just weedy little things. Does also perform the useful function of stopping your rear wheels falling off, I'll admit...
Sorry folks i had a brain freeze today, wheel drum needs to come off not the hub. I need to take the hub nut off to replace and more importantly free the star adjusters since they are seized up. I tried heat, spray and brute force through the access holes but they are not moving. Already been a long day .... Doh! Letting mechanic mate do it for me this time. Other side came off easily last year just N/S being a dog. Thank you all for advice and help.
Stan, you do not need to undo the hub nut. Take the drum off and you can get at everything you need to.
I'm confused. To get brake drums off you need to remove the hub nut. It's the hub nut that holds them on....?
If you have an prototype bay the hub nuts do hold the on because the drum is also the hub and has a horrific price tag to match (£200 each for a 68 ) Late bays and cross-overs have a seperate hub and drum You leave the hub in place. Take out the 2 small bolts and it'll either come off easily or require some hammering. They can be a tight fit on the hub. You will then see this (hopefully without the leakage). Hub nut and hub still on van.
The outer wheel hub ( you removed in your picture) has the moulding that is held on by the castle headed nut ( hub nut). Mine is a '73 model but still has the petrol flap on the side. Pretty sure they were deleted in '74 so its most likely a cross over left over if you know what I mean!! Either way its dark, late ,I am back in the office tomorrow and Mare will sort it for me on Thursday when he MOT's it. Thanks for the help Zed btw On a seperate note, I finally managed to weld the plate I had stuck on with duct tape for 2 months! Hahaha
No it doesn't Stan. I think you've lost the plot. lol To be clear, in the pic I've removed the 2 small bolts and pulled off the drum. That is all. The van in the picture was built on 3rd Jan 73 and has petrol flap on the side. Westy Continental. It was mine. Narrow 5 studs are like the pic Early wide 5 don't have studs, they have bolts to hold the wheel on. There are no other versions. Trust me Stan, I do this all day long.
Now you have me doubting this? Maybe it looks like its all in one but might be seperate just covered in thick paint and rust! Oh b@@@@x!
