Oil leak source

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Chrisd, May 30, 2020.

  1. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    The kit I used was from VWHeritage and so I might call them tomorrow to see if they know what the seals are made off?

    Engine Gasket Set 1800-2000cc
    SKU: 029-198-009/AE

    It has been suggested that the push rod tubes themselves may be at fault with the shape not allowing the seal to seal. They looked fine and I bought a new one from VWH for my one damaged tube. I will see if the new one is also leaking. Does anybody know of a good tube supplier or are the VWH ones considered good?
     
  2. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    They should be fine. When I fitted some last year they were (looked) the same from same supplier as singles. My old heads were pitted so I used a smear of sealant. Rob glued them in with "wellseal" as you can see here...after I finally hammered the tubes out.. they certainly didn't leak at that point. Lucky he didn't glue them to the tubes too! On the other hand he did nothing to stop and possible leakage between seal and tube...nor did I. So far so good.
    IMG_20200704_083805895.jpg

    After cleaning the dark marks are pits. Too close to where the previous seals ended up.
    IMG_20200704_114611723.jpg
     
  3. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Here is a picture of the old tube I replaced and the new one from VWH. The retaining seal edges are much thicker. I will check tomorrow if the new tube is leaking as well as the old ones. If not I may just change them all but I wonder if the thicker edges are good or bad?

    I thought I had cleaned the head as much as possible and carefully pushed the tubes in.
    IMG_20210220_160616~2.jpg
     
  4. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    We all do and still we get leaks, if not straight away then eventually, it's just a matter of time. When I did a sort out after only 15,000 miles mine was leaking from several pushrod tubes, the flywheel seal, the fan hub seal and the oil filler/case join. For the first 10,000 it didn't leak at all.
     
  5. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    @zedders I beat you...mine lasted all of 10 miles! :oops:
     
  6. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I've been there too with pushrods tubes.
     
    Chrisd likes this.
  7. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    When we built Gusbus' motor, these are the Heritage supplied pushrod tubes....

    DSC02461.JPG

    Three somewhat shorter ones than the other five :eek:
     
    77 Westy, Zed and Chrisd like this.
  8. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    @Chrisd If yours are like this^ fit a spacer under the tube at the case end to move the O-ring into the head. I made mine from wire rolled around a steel bar.
     

    Attached Files:

  9. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    @77 Westy, this is the best picture I have of mine (before installing engine) and I think it shows all tubes located well at the rocker end so hopefully OK at the case end. This side is not leaking badly.
    IMG_20210224_175839~3.jpg

    This is the side that is leaking.
    IMG_20210422_113632~2.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2021
  10. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    Case end isn’t a problem, the O-ring is deep in the recess but if the tube is slightly short the head end O-ring might only seal right on the edge – like Mark’s.

    The shape of the Heritage tubes looks good to me but if they’re short the O-ring wont seal well. It might be worth using spacers on the bottom of the tubes just to use a ‘new’ section of the case and heads to seal against. I don’t like using sealant on O-rings, especially when they have to move as the engine expands and contacts but if it works…
     
  11. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    This is the side that is leaking. You can just about see where the tubes end.
    If I'm understanding you, you are suggesting 'stuff' something (washer like) between the case and the tube to push the end of the tube up and cause the head end to be higher without fouling the rocker arms?

    Edit:- just looked at your photo more closely and seen the o-ring you have created. What thickness did you use?

    IMG_20210302_122325~2.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2021
  12. Looking at that photo I would say the center two tubes are not pushed home enough. Looks like the orings are bulging out at the side.
     
    Chrisd likes this.
  13. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    I was looking at that as well. They did, pop in, just like the others but they are also leaking. I thing a bit of fettling is in order. I have ordered some new Viton seals as well just incase.
     
  14. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    Those are about 3mm diameter but my cylinders are spaced further from the case compared to normal because of the longer (80mm) stroke. Washers or machined spacers would be better but if you do use wire be very careful the ends don’t scratch the surface where the O-ring sits.

    Pics before and after the spacer.
     

    Attached Files:

    Chrisd likes this.
  15. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Cheers Geoff. I'm going to try reseating with new viton washers first before I try your solution. I have a couple of old tubes so I can look for a washer that fits in the meantime that might do your job if needed. If anything, my head should be closer than it was as I removed the head shims that were there previously and not needed because of my AMC head lip.
     
    77 Westy likes this.
  16. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    What do hot oil, rubber gloves, specialist clamps and shouts of glee have in common?


    Push rod tubes not leaking any more:)


    Well mostly not, but we won't talk about a few minor drops between friends!

    Fingers crossed they hold and no more fettling required.
     
  17. Specialist clamps?
     
    Zed likes this.
  18. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    Don’t ask! :)
     
  19. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    With new Viton O-rings?
     
  20. I need to know otherwise I won’t be able to sleep tonight
     
    Valveandy and 77 Westy like this.

Share This Page