Calling in tomorrow for a chat after getting the estimate today. They're basically saying that following a strip down and a good look the heads are beyond repair, the cylinders themselves aren't too well and the camshaft is very worn. Upshot being that the amount of work involved means that it makes sense to call it a rebuild and stick in a new oil pump etc while they're on. Would include replacing the lifters. I can see the logic, and I'll end up with a nicer motor than I've ever had before, but I'm not flush with cash at the moment and I'm a bit tempted to try and trim the bill where I can. Assuming that they're right about the current state of things, which I'll check I agree with tomorrow when I can have a look, doing the job thoroughly does make sense. Do those of you who know Type 4 engines way better than I do agree that I should just bite the bullet? Any advice welcome!
It depends what they say £, how competent you believe they are at engine building, whether a rebuilt from elsewhere may be a better option etc etc. However you've put it in their hands to the extent it's in their workshop with the engine dismantled. If the question was whether to get the job done properly or half done...
I went from page 1 - rounded threat/washer issue to the above posting. Old van's eh. Got to love them. Mainly because burning them is frowned upon by the local council.
Your poor lad who now thinks stripping an oil sump plug leads to a rebuild Sorry to hear it's grown so much, good luck with the repairs.
I think they're very competent, good reputation in the area and plenty of fast aircooled car owners from across France like them. They've also been totally straight about other work in the past and never seemed to be inventing issues so they can solve them. I'm just worried that because they have high standards I'll end up buying a new oil pump and so on when the existing parts seemed to be fine. Half done on an engine doesn't sound right though...
Wasn't his fault but I'm tempted to stop his pocket money for a hundred years anyway. Think I'll need the cash!
Clear a space in the garage , get yourself a copy of Bentley a small heater and enjoy a quiet winter getting oily ... failing that if the cams being changed tappets change too... and why do they say heads are a write off?
Its a Type 4 where that is the most likely issue. If the camshaft is worn then the lifters are probably shot too. So they come as a package. If the oil pump has been pumping camshaft then it is probably shot too. Pistons and cylinders, well they wear out. So while its apart, as the case has to be split to repair it, you have already paid a lot of the cost to get that point. One thing to do though to save some money where you can easily do it, is to make sure that you deliver the long block to them to be repaired and you dont pay the garage for the labour of removing and replacing the engine .. I checked once and discovered I had saved myself the cost of a days labour when I handed SGS aircooled a slightly knackered engine. So it only cost me the labour for the work actually done on the engine.
One reason one can end up with more new parts than if you diy is that a professional must add labour and warrenty their work so what to you is the basic cost of valves and guides to them perhaps approaches the cost of a replacement head. And so on. Wear pattern on the cam? They all have. You might keep, they must replace. Oil pump - you'd inspect, they'd chuck. You could call it arse covering but it isn't really, it's economics when labour counts. An hour farting about with something that's 50/50 good doesn't add up against cutting to the chase and replacing.
Thanks all. Had a good look yesterday and to be honest the only thing I could possibly have quibbled with the oil pump. Nasty crack in one head, three in the other including one between two of the cylinders. Crank generally worn but severely so in one area. their description of the cylinders as 'tired' was generous - bit like saying I look a little bit tired compared to when I was 17! On the lifters, they were hydraulic but they' been "locked" to make them behave like they weren't. Two were new but the others were very old, same story with most of the rocker arms, most very worn. The argument about the oil pump was pretty much that as it looks old and everything else seems to have come from at least two different engines you've got no idea how much life there is left in it so, given it isn't expensive compared to the total bill might as well play safe and replace it. So, going to end up with nearly everything new for old except the lifters which are going to be SCAT non-hydraulic ones and the cylinders, which are going up from 93mm to 96mm on the grounds that I might as well have some extra torque for my money. Could have done without this just now but on the plus side after adding that lot to the Dell 40s and the vintage speed exhaust I should be able to go up hills much more rapidly while enjoying how my van sounds!
On the bright side, the case is ok? Shame really. If I were you I'd go a bit crazier and stroke it up to 2.2l+. In for a penny... You'd get more use from your dells and exhaust and a lot more torque.
I second what @zedders said, if you can possible afford it go bigger. There is no replacement for displacement.
Yes, case is fine. Could argue I was lucky to go in when I did because things were only heading one way and it could have ended up worse. Going a lot bigger did cross my mind but I really can't afford to go any crazier. I'm spending rainy day money when I already know that it will certainly pour down in the spring unless work picks up.
If the 1800 crank needs to be reground and you’d like a little more capacity I just happen to have a reground 2.0l crank with bearings and a set of rods available. And I suppose you know that if you fit solid lifters you also need to change the pushrods? You’re in luck I have a set of pushrods too. I guess you’re near Toulouse, I’m west of Lyon and I’m sure delivery could be arranged if you’re interested. 2.0l crank with 96mm P&Cs = 2056cc, a perfect match for your 40 Dells. EDIT The reason the 71mm crank, rods etc are available is because I fitted an 80mm crank to my 2.0l.
That does sound interesting, thanks very much for the extremely tempting offer Mr Westy. I was getting new push rods too so that whole lot could come in very useful indeed. I'll have a word with the Speedshop blokes to be sure they're OK with using parts I provide and then get back to you. Don't see why they'd be bothered unless they've already ordered stuff and even then they could return it. Might take until Monday as they only have the shop open on Saturdays so the person on my engine won't be in.
Gave them a ring but can't talk to anybody who knows about my engine until Monday. In the meantime ... on the devis/estimate they're recommending a WEBCAM T4 "86" 0,423 levée 270° . How does that sound to those of you that know way more about camshafts than I do?
That’s similar to a Scat C25 cam (0.430" lift, 272 deg. duration), it might be too aggressive for an 1800 but should be fine with 2.0l+. A Web 73/86 split duration cam might be better but it depends on what you want the engine to do - Web 86 for more power at higher revs, Web 73/86 for more torque at lower revs. Be careful The Speedshop don’t spec a racing engine, judging by their website they may be biased towards high revs and high bhp – but I don’t know them at all so may be very wrong.
