did same on #2 screw driver down this is the other mark i used for 2 and 4 was way out but does this sound right opposite to tdc is this correct
Top dead centre is the top of the piston travel, not half way between anything. That's why it is top dead centre. At this position for firing position of number 1 the mark on your fan, there should be only one mark, will point to zero on the timing scale. So is that big white blob of paint actually on the groove on the fan ? Also, you seem to have a tipex mark on your timing scale 7.5* AFTER top dead centre, not BEFORE top dead centre. So if you're timing to here no wonder its all to cock. Forget all about your timing and trying to get the engine running. Go back to the start by finding top dead centre at number 1 and sorting out your valve clearances properly
The 1 was a mark I found and the other is where I found top dead centre watched ur videos but can't see y there is nothing on 2/4 exhaust valve buddy ran lovely but 2 miles spanners again 1/3 are fine and both 2/4 inlet valves are perfect not sure where to go now (the marks was just to show u how far out this chap was setting them up)
you don't really need to know where Bottom Dead Centre is....if you know for sure that no.1 cylinder is on the compression stroke (by watching the valves, or feeling for compression as you turn the engine over by hand) then the screwdriver test will confirm Actual Top Dead Centre... As mentioned previously.....to get it absolutely bang on 0 degrees: make a depth stop from an old spark plug (see pic).... turn the engine over until the piston decks out make a reference mark on both the fan and the casing (doesn't matter where) crank the engine backwards until the piston decks out again make another reference mark Actual TDC (zero degrees) is exactly between the two sets of marks.... all a timing scale does is give you a convenient reference point...if it's missing no problem... basic maths: measure the diameter of the pulley/fan outside edge to outside edge (d mm) divide by 2 to give you the radius ( r mm) Circumference is 2 x 3.142 x r (C mm) to figure out where 7.5 degrees is: C x 7.5 divided by 360 = arc length to measure around outside edge of pulley/fan ( in mm)
Right just lat on floor turning the engine over by by hand and can not see the #2 exhaust pushrod moving at all ?? I'm stuck now need to get it to someone ?
You're getting yourself all confused... There should be one factory mark on the fan. It will be a filed notch. This is your TDC notch and is your reference point when pointing at zero. So, get #1 set. Once you have done #1 you use the same reference mark for all other valves and there are 2 ways to do it. The more difficult way is to keep turning the engine by hand clockwise and switching sides each time The easier and really simple way to do this is to make a mark 180* on the opposite side of your fan. If you do this its then dead simple as you do both cylinders on one side of the engine and then go round to the other side. However, this second mark has to be 180* opposite and accurate. You set #1 valves. You then turn the engine 180* anti clockwise (backwards). The new 'opposite' mark you have just made will now point to zero. This will give you TDC for #2. Set the valves for #2 You then turn the engine 180* anti clockwise again. Now the 'proper' mark on the fan points to zero again, and #3 is at TDC. Set the valves for #3. Then turn the engine again anti clockwise. Your 'proper' mark will now point to zero and #4 will be at TDC. Set the valves et voila, your valves are all set correctly, but... If you don't get TDC on number one to begin with correctly then everything else you follow with will be wrong. Once your valve clearances are set you can then start the engine at set your TIMING. You can't do your timing until your valves are properly set. Timing in this engine is 7.5* BTDC. The mark you have on your timing scale is in the wrong place, you should be looking at between #8 and 6 on the other side of the zero on your timing scale
This is exactly what I did buddy !! Sorry I was trying to show the mark I was using !! I got this now bud god that must of been painfully for u !! But the #2/4 exhaust valves not moving fully in all time ?? Even when I'm turning over by would this explain the noise and adjustment on these 2 valves ?
Because I don't think you're finding TDC to start with. I reckon you're half way up the piston stroke therefore you're trying to set the valves with the cam in the wrong position...
That's why I asked earlier what it had been timed to. Sounded to me like it was probably at 7.5* atdc.
When I set no 2 I did the screwdriver in at waited till it was at the top then set 2 ? Iv just popped Off rockers and checked push rods all seem ok !! I pushed in the rods and turned engine all the way around and it doesn't move like its stuck in there does this make sense pal !!
You pushed in the rods? Like Joker says, stop feckin with it until someone familiar with these engines offers to come and help you.
If it were me and the level of confusion I'd take all the valve train off, make sure the followers aren't jammed in there at all ( don't see how unless you've fecked it) and start all over again. Make sure you get all the push rods in right too as they're not self centering so its possible to get them in slightly wrong. The pistons reach the top of their stroke TWICE. You need to be at TDC on #1 on the COMPRESSION stroke. Then do the others.
PM me your address mate and phone number mate. I can't promise but I might be able to call in tomorrow afternoon on the way back from Manchester.
I'm sorry when it's fixed buddy ill promise to brining is to ur garage or pay someone to fix it to save your ears from bleeding !! Would u say I'd benefit from te
