Start with my engine #2 exhaust valve and #4 came loose other day twice allso closer inspection today found a rocker loose the stud had tripped a thread ! Went to volksmagic replaced the tread then had a chap set up all the tappets but there is a nasty noise deep in engine he says !! Popped out quick test 2 miles all good !! But tonight after cooled down no power hardly !! Allso I notice fuse 8 is getting warm and time to time I press brake it pops it this killing all life in the bus !! Any ideas were to start on this ? And the engine well he was worried that the 2&4 exhaust tapets screwed in allot to set up correct !! Then he said he had to advance timing to let in run correct ?? I'm stuck now could do with some 1 type 4 knollage To advise me where to he from here ?? On both parts !!
Engine stripdown and rebuild ....fuse 8..wrap it in tinfoil or dont use the brakes......job is A Gooden
I had a feeling the engine was poorly !! Anyone recomend anyone to have a look I think I should be able to sort fuse out !!
Bad day on the drive buddy speaking to the wife and gonna check in the morning but may be help back a while any recomendations bud
This chap came round buddy says it don't run right when the timing is correct could it just be timing wrong which he said it was and the carbs need setting up ? I do have a timing gun buddy got dark in the end so left it some thing is not right I no the engine is noisy but just want it for this year winter looking at rebuild !! I wonder if @Joker can help he is pretty local !! And hot on type 4 engines !!
try dropping some oil and see if there are any metal shards in it....hopefully not, but may be cam bearings
Willing to try anything deffo not right but iv tried but not up on engines I'll admit have to admit I need help now !!
so when the timing was set according to the manual, the engine wasn't running properly.....and this guy simply turned the dizzy, until it seemed to pick up better on the throttle...?
Correct ??? But it's not right I took his word as he was recomended to me !! But surely this is not right ?? But the noisey engine I can live with for a few months !! Need a clever man type 4 man in the midlands area just set timing and carbs I presume to hope get me on the road for volksworld cutting it fine now !!
When you say "when it cooled down" do you mean it was noticeably hot? Lots of ticking of contracting metal? See if your plug lead caps have melted.
Brill cheers some thing to try but when I say cooled down I did the dip stick test but oils was warm not burning hot buddy , need some 1 to look at it sure it some thing saft !!
all things being equal, the ignition timing should be set according to spec (for whichever engine you have). The fact that it doesn't pick up (or run right) at spec suggests that either the ignition system is at fault (which could be anything from worn dizzy shaft, stuck vacuum/leaking hoses, broken advance spring, points gap, plug gaps....or that the carb is so badly out that it needs stupid amounts of idle to get the thing off idle.....which could be the carb itself, plugged jet, air leak disconnected hose....you're also having issues with the brake servo, so i'm wondering whether this is related, and the tappet thing is a red herring. Everything starts with correct valve clearances, regardless of what motor you have.....if these are out, you're chasing your tail....set the tappets stone cold
Fitted brand new servo this morning wow what a difference all sorted that problem !! Think I need to start from scratch check plug gaps find tdc set gaps set timing ect ect ( with supervision)
So not the brake lights then according to that....so you have a fuse that pops when you press the brakes, even though the brake lights aren't on that fuse, and it gets hot? What stops working if you take that fuse out?
You have about 10 threads going on this same subject mate. As everyone has said start from scratch. Leave the engine stone cold, overnight. You keep checking the valves when you've had it running. That's a waste of time and all you're going to do is feck it up. Get #1 piston set to its FIRING stroke, fan notch set to zero on the timing scale, rotor pointing to #1 FIRING positron, NOT pointing at #1 piston. It's all dependent on the particular distributor you have. Make sure all your leads are in the right position. Then work from there and do each of the other valves. Follow my video of it if that helps. If it sounds like a bag of nails then there is something wrong and every time you run it, drive it you're going to feck it up even more. I'd come and help but it will be next month now before I can
I did everything u said buddy and watched your video I payed some 1 to come do it allso I'm gonna have a look today see have another go today and see how we I go but can't see y he set timing out to make it run gonna check plug gaps tdc again and btc so I no it's all correct then timing again then if it's still poo there must be a problem
