My New 1975 Devon Eurovette. Full resto.

I've finally decided to start a resto thread, to let you lot see what im up to.

A bit of background...

Im Carl, 21, From Norwich, Norfolk... Have no previous mechanical experience except general maintenance on motorbikes, couldn't weld, however had a pretty good knowledge of angle grinders and other common powertools. also a very fast learner..

Basically about 6 months ago I saw a B-E-A-Utiful prototype bay camper at a Trials biking event I went to. Then immediately decided I wanted one.
After two months of ebay/gumtree/forum ads.. I found a 1975 Devon pop top late bay that I could afford, then took the plunge.

£3000 later...














It was delivered 4 months ago on a flat bed to my house when I was at work, so naturally, after a 10 hour shift at work and when I got home at 6pm.. the strip down started.








next up... engine out...



at this point I decided to clean up a few bits and get them out of the way..







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Did a quick powdercoat run... and this is the state of the spare room..




Then, started on the paint stripping, wanted to dip it, but no way I could afford it. So had to rely on a bit of graft..





got this...


got rid of this...


put in this...


wolla! viola? (spelling?)



back off..


and patched..


side window patched with a part from donor van


rear corner on..

 

Yay! Karma to you my boy! Thanks for getting a resto thread up - always good for motivating us lot and regenerating our interest - you aint hanging around thats for sure! Is looking good, well done!

 

Some things ive done but havent uploaded pictures of..

Replaced front ARB
Had dash, bumpers etc, shot blasted, then i've beaten straight and repaired.
Half repaired the big hole made by the PO for some sort of sender unit access hatch,
Removed the old belly pans,
Removed front jacking points and outriggers ready for new ones,
Removed outer sills, ready for new inner and outer.
Repaired/replaced rear seatbelt mounts,
Repaired rear cargo floor holes.

now in the process of repairing A+B posts ready for new arches.

I have managed to source re-chromed door handles and tailgate etc, sliding door handle is off getting chromed.

thats about as much info as i can give you guys, ill keep updating and I hope you enjoy.

Carl

 

Well sounds like you are nearly done you had better come over here and help us with ours while your in the mood

 

Said it before and i'll say it again kudos to all you guys who do resto's i thought about buying a cheaper dog for about 2 seconds before i decided lazy american rust free would be easier, however i fully belive you who repair will love your vans more than those like me who don't.well done mate

 

Cheers guys! Ive already had one or two low moments when i think.. What on earth am i doing? This will take years...

 

your doing well with that dude keep the pics coming

 

K+ to you for all your hard graft you are steaming along

 

Alright a little update.

continued cutting old rot out last saturday.

front of NS rear wheel arch..


NS b post



i cut out all the old rot inside, and replaced with nice new sheet metal, then sealed the welds etc front and back and got this on


cut all this rot out..


this is whats left of my NS front jacking point..


popped the outer sill off and this is the result..


then started trying to remove the rear hub castle nut. which is proving to be harder than expected.

 

You need some heat on that nut, then again where is the nut?
seems you've been shaving it

 

Try knocking it round with a sharp cold chisel and lump hammer, though best time to do this is just after you finished grinding, while it's hot.

 

Obviously it will be difficult to ensure that that the threads on the shaft will not be damaged.
Personally, I would heat the nut, well whats left
Then eitheir use a large adjustable/stilly, with a long scaff tube as an extension !
but thats just my opinion :
Sure I will be re-educated again

 

yeah im planning on cutting the last few lumps off to weaken it, then do a little careful grinding, then heat up with blowtorch, then use big adjustable with extender bar. ill update more next saturday.

but for today.. half way through work i decided to pull a bit of a sicky and ferry a load of parts down to powdercoating.

front grill
front bumper
both parts of the dash
totem pole
heater covers
quaterlights
window runners
few other little bits and bobs.

also taking delivery of re-chromed door handles & tailgate latch.

and recently bought:
new ball joint boots and track rod boots
indicator lenses & bulbs
rear light units (expensive ones)
wing mirrors (expensive ones)
headlamp rings & eyebrows

 

The best option for getting your nuts off is
Buy a big adjustable (CK – it is made to a fine tolerance- approx. £28.00)– and that can become your only spanner you will ever need.(well almost – also good for imperial as well as metric sizes – ho ho ho) >
They are a lot cheaper than getting a socket (£25.00 plus and the drive)– you will have to buy the drive as its ¾ inch so will not fit on your normal ratchet.
Looking good – keep it up

 

One of these: http://www.buckandhickman.com/find/product-is-247138 and a 7lb sledge would get it off, or would have before you cut most of the nut off.

 

ive only cut the N/S nut up. I have this....



...With a 6 foot scaffold pole as an extender bar. and it wheelspun my van!
if i had brakes on it may be easier, but ive now strapped down my wheel onto a metal grate and choc'd it.. still wont budge.
covered it in WD40 and used a blowtorch and nowt budges.

so im resorting to cutting it smaller and using the same technique. already have 2 new castle nuts and split pins waiting to go on after I clean up the threads etc.