Morks Type 4 1800 AP engine project

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by MorkC68, Nov 1, 2013.

  1. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    You didn't ask. :)
    Great thread BTW Mark, it really shows why you can't buy a £1000 engine and expect miracles. Time is money.
     
    MorkC68 likes this.
  2. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Thick perspex (old number plate) is more accurate - and 2 drilled holes (looking like a button) makes it easier if you find yourself doing it again. :thumbsup:
     
    MorkC68 likes this.
  3. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    Indeed Steve! And with having some patience, not being afraid of asking for opinions/advice it also shows that they aren't that complicated..Im happy with progress, its going well, I hope it runs well though :)
     
  4. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I think you can be sure that it will. You've taken a lot more trouble over it than I did with mine!
     
  5. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    Fingers crossed!

    the one thing I did learn was to talk to Stateside about reground cranks before you go anywhere!. This comment isn't against anyone btw, its more me not weighing up my options - Coolair sorted the regrinding of ours, it had a 0.75 to compensate for the scoring on it. Its at its maximum and cant be done any further.

    Jim would have done a swap for a crank (£150 I think he said the swap would be) with a 0.25 grind giving us two more regrinds, should we require future work.

    Hey ho, that's how you gain confidence! Im not worried with this one, it feels right!
     
  6. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    It's a standard engine more or less? So the grinding and machining is still within tolerance. If you were building a more off the wall one, you would prefer less grinding of crank and machining of case and thinner bearings given the choice.
     
  7. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    Its got 96 x 66 (1911) piston/barrel kit, aside of that, its stock - the only difference are the AMC 39.3 x 33 valve' heads. So yeah its virtually stock!

    I would like to be a bit adventurous and build a 2276 for the westy and go for a decent cam etc..but that's for another day!! :D its all good fun :thumbsup:
     
  8. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Indeed. I'm planning my next one - 94 x 86 - just short of 2.4L. Chevvy rods and the raised case I already have waiting = no clearancing required. :cool: But it's going to be more sensible than the last one with less cam and less compression. With hindsight, though I had to make the thrashy one for personal reasons, I'd have been better to abandon it and start the bigger one as was the original plan.
     
  9. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    It gets bloody addictive!

    Ill get this motor built, mated with the 6 rib box, get it into Gusbus and Major can go off the road for a bit of tlc, get the underside sorted, get the motor and box out and get them looked at!
     
    zed likes this.
  10. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    Oh and read up on a few books on carbs and cams :D
     
  11. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Snap. I want to know why they jump from 272-ish to 283-ish duration. I'm guessing that 272 is no overlap and that overlap is pointless unless you have 1o degs or more. I haven't the heart to research right now!
     
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  12. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    That's reading for an autumn night, when its chilly out!

    Theres one thing, it keeps us off the streets and out of trouble :D
     
    MK-Bay and zed like this.
  13. Haha glad I helped someone :D I mainly just ask questions or post stuff for people to tell me I've got it wrong! But that's how we learn :thumbsup:
     
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  14. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    More progress made, both in a forward direction and one which halted us!

    After cleaning the p & b's and checking the piston rings are orientated correctly, all four pistons and barrels are in situ, and the heads torqued up
    [​IMG]
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    Last edited: Jul 14, 2017
  15. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    Cam followers lubed with Torko, as are the lobes
    [​IMG]

    Pushrod tubes delicately fitted
    [​IMG]

    Pushrods and Rocker assemblies fixed up
    [​IMG]

    Valve adjustment screws fitted and gapped to 0.008" - before its said, the gaps aren't set correctly yet, Ill do this once the other side is fixed up and what have you!
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2017
    Surfari likes this.
  16. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    As Im following Pauls build thread, he found an issue with the pushrod tubes being too short (Coolair identified a supplier issue), we checked the tubes from VW Heritage, they wasn't aware of an issue. Had a good chat with Julian and Nigel who are sending out four replacement tubes, no problem!

    They are up to 3mm short :eek:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    you can see some of the green seals popping through due to this
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2017
  17. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    For the purpose of discussion, I seem to recall Tom Wilson thinks you should torque both sides together, but I don't remember why.
     
  18. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    Whilst Im waiting for new tubes, we popped the thermostat on, along with the wheel
    [​IMG]

    give the oil cooler a last clean out and fit the oil filler tube
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2017
  19. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    Yes he lists a sequence to follow - we did the #1 side to 10lb - ft (or whatever he says), installed the #3 side head and followed him through via the suggested sequence - all done in one session, so to speak!

    Im happy we went as per his suggestion, worked well :D
     
  20. remember to sort that oil cooler bracket out, its still bent
     
    zed likes this.

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