So you’re saying it needs welding. Jokes. I’ll get the engine in first or it’s another £150 to be transported. Yes though, it’s equal top position of priority - with 8 other things. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you draw a line through the centre of the graph I posted you have what VW regarded as ideal for type-4 engines? If you have a stock engine that's what you want. Then consider that it's represented as 2 straight lines which relates to the two advance weights. You can assume they'd have prefered a curve but juggled the best result they could from 2 lines? I made mine more curvy as we are not limited by start/mid/end. The vac one I simply watched the reported vacuum on the dial, found it was the same as shown on that graph and also transferred it to the 123.
I drew a curved line down the centre between VW's acceptable min and max figures at each rpm, it's quite a wide band! You must enter RPM to the nearest 100 so it pays to look for where the lines cross. I thought it was 5o rpm complete degrees when I put the red lines on the above but on the PC it lets me put in parts. These numbers would be correct if you time your 123 at the usual 8 deg idle mark, they are advance only. This is how to put the curve into the 123 if you time it to the mark NOT TDC as the instructions seem to say To set it up at TDC, add 8 degs to all the numbers including the 0's. Above is the VW MAP according to 123. However the VW chart above is completely different numbers - 120 to 200. I don't remember what my 123 dashboard reported as vacuum, but I spread it around like the above.
It's a question that keeps coming up and the instructions are somewhat baffling so this is my once for all time effort to provide a start point for type-4s. I think if I looked harder I'd find it not so different to type-1, but less full advance. In fact they supply a curve for "most boxer up to 1600" described as "demonstrates how to set the unit in a real-life situation, using the original data from the 'one-fits-all' Bosch-distributor 0.231.170.034 for Volkswagen." - 0 at 1,000 9 at 1500 21 at 3500 That's where the numbers for the vac came from on the black picture.
Buyers beware: Poked that out of the adaptor. Plenty more would need filing within it. This union has just been pushed in. Not even started to catch a thread with just 1mm before it flares. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This is a much better adaptor: They caught threads right from the start. Wound in until getting firm and there is still plenty to go. It’s quite small, so if it doesn’t leak I think it could be left in place for adding this gauge to. One thing though (which was anticipated), if I screw these things in tightly there is no chance they will all have the desired angle. The gauge will point backwards (not easy to read ha ha) and the 90• will point towards the wheel arch. Is this where the use of tape comes in handy? If not done by a muppet that is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I fitted mine without tape, cranked fittings to max and it leaked, wound ptfe on correctly i.e around the thread with tension and not allowing any over the end and Bob's your uncle no more leaks and ability to adjust angle as required, I used to advocate that tape wasn't required when using a taper fitting but have very much changed my mind after seeing the problem first hand. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
Cool. Snotty didn’t have a problem with his. It’s probably hit or miss in terms of no leaks. My carbs and fuel pump have NPT unions with no tape (I assume no leaks). Any new connections I make on the fuel line I want to keep clearly visible/accessible. Good to know that tape will help get the angles right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I didn’t, but getting the correct orientation of bits with a taper thread will always have the prob that things can end up pointing the wrong way. Fortunately, everything on the Space Spider ended up in the right direction (with a bit of extra tightening - don’t go mad with tapers).
I bought rear tinware brackets and no way they will work as tinware brackets for me, so i’ve repurposed them for the Malpassi. The bulbous bit on the spare wheel is the perfect place to drop the bracket down from, and pointed backwards the brackets perfectly clear that bulbous bit - room enough for some rivnuts and bolts. Same m6 thread on brackets and Malpassi. Need to clear the Malpassi flying saucer bolts so added anti-vibration bobbins…now realising they are actually going to just make it bob around! I’ll replace them with threaded spacers. Dome nuts on top for belt & braces styling. Questions though about tightening up the NPTs. I’ve done everything finger firm so far, but for it to work (90• pointing down yet adaptor facing forward slightly to allow the gauge to be spun on) I need to wind the adaptor in another 180• from what’s shown in the 2nd pic. There is plenty of thread available to do so. Would require a spanner so i’m just concerned about not cracking the thing - having been warned about that for the Oil Pressure switch. Thanks guys. Maybe this setup will work for others. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
When you want a fitting pointing in a particular direction, tapered threads are not helpful are they? The other option is a straight taper to compression fitting thread so you can use something like these on my oil cooler... Though you don't want to end up with a pile of bits like this temp thing I cobbled together to check my oil pressure gauge...
A local hydraulic supplier is a good port of call to take your parts to and see what they can come up with... like that ^ Mine are great fun, we had a proper laugh sticking that lot together and IIRC he gave me all the bits for £0 or £2 or something daft.
There are only 2 straightforward things about this project: the reasons for starting and the desire to finish! Ah, I see the purpose of those fittings now. Impressive cobbling. My whole engine bay might end up resembling that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My oil cooler also uses those nice hydraulic line fittings. Also makes it easier to drain down as they uncouple and couple quickly. Not AN ones, just BSP..
