Lowered bus.....horrendous bump steer!

Discussion in 'Modified Shizzle' started by daisy1, Apr 9, 2016.

  1. So bus is on t2d drop spindles and adjusters although they are set back to stock hight. All geometry is correct and also running on spax adjustables. The issue is I've now got pretty bad bump steer and tbh it might be normal as I have had the van low for a while but it was just on adjuster so pretty much on bump stops with no suspension. Now I have full stroke you can feel the front pulling side to side over bumps. Or is it just me??
  2. Had the tracking/caster/camber checked?
  3. Yeah all done and checked twice :/
    RustyMac likes this.
  4. ARB?
  5. Or is it just me?
    What is the attraction of lowering and ruining a perfectly good classic bus:(
    mgbman likes this.
  6. What could the problem with the arb be? It's on new mounts and looks physically ok?
  7. Horses for courses, each to the own, don't fancy yours much. If we all liked the same things the world would be a boring place ;) anyway I like the challenge of not ruining it, if possible.
    zedders likes this.
  8. It was more of a "do you have one fitted?" Question :)

    Any new ball joints in the trailing arms?
    daisy1 and zedders like this.
  9. so when you say bump steer.....you mean you can actually feel the wheels hopping in/out when the suspension's compressing, as you drive?
    Are you 100% certain it's not a worn tie rod end, or steering damper bushing?
    I've had cars in the past where everything 'feels' solid, when checked, but only misbehaves when driven...especially cars with track control arms and adjustable ball joints....

    I'd try the Spax on the softest setting....what wheels/tyres are you using?
  10. Well it's brand new t2d drop spindles and they do feel a little tight?
  11. It's new ball joints and arb bushes. One new adjustable tie rod (t2d part) and the other has no obvious movement. Also a relatively new drop link.

    Running 15" Fuch reps with 55 profiles on all brand new.

    I have the dampers set I would say 40% stiffness and it rides nice the issue is when the suspension articulates or the body roles I can feel the compressed wheel pulling the steering. If I'm on a long straight A road (50-60 mph) hitting bumps and drains I'm having to constantly correct.

    Now what I would say is I've driven it for so long with practically no suspension on the front it might just be me over analysing it and it might be normal tuesday_wildchild
  12. Mine didn't do that with flipped spindles. Not a trace of it.

    What it did do after I added bump stops to catch the front suspension was dig in on the corners which was a great improvement on stock!
  13. I'm surprised zed didn't pick up on that...

    How bad was your bump steer on new BJs @zedders ?
  14. No bump steer, just too stiff for any meaningful self correcting made it a pita to drive in a straight line. But that was regular suspension, the flipped ones were "let go of the steering wheel at 70mph" from the word go, very good.
  15. Bump steer with regular length tie rods I can only think the idler is flapping about, or the tracking is a mile out.
  16. doesn't sound normal tbh....the tie rod length is adjustable...too short/long will cause bump steer....are you certain the camber/tracking has been done properly?

    also. 55s on 15's will give you a smaller rolling radius than stock, but this, in isolation, wouldn't cause bump steer
  17. I'll check the idler for any slack then get the alignment checked again. @zedders the stiff ball joint thing is an issue had the same prob with limited self centering. Cheers boys I'll keep digging
  18. You have flipped spindles? Check you have 2 adjustable rods, both fitted from underneath.
  19. Yeah I think that's how the t2d spindles work with heavy duty ball joints. Both track rods are adjustable but will check there orientation. Cheers
  20. So just checked and both track rods are in from the top but I'd be surprised if I've put them in wrong to the tapers! Gonna pop em out over the week.

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