Fruitcake Type 4 engine rebuild - Finally started

With hydraulic cam followers the case is probably single relief but check for an oil pressure control valve by cylinder #1 pushrod tubes. If there is one it’ll have a triple-square cap – a 3/8” ratchet extension will remove it.

 

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I've removed the pressure relief valve and checked the fit in the bore by attaching it to a length of dowel and it feels as I would expect it to. I'm coming to the conclusion that it's due to a build up of wear across multiple areas such as lifter bores, pump, relief valve, crank / cam bearings etc coupled with the damaged o ring and loos pickup pipe. I think I'll find a suitable O ring and refit the original pump, I'll check the clearance of the new pump whilst the cases are split in case I want to swap them at a later date. Also, as @77 Westy suggested the second valve has been blanked out due to the case being originally for hydraulic lifters.

 

Well my plans for building the engine over the weekend have been scuppered. I've just received an email from FedEx informing me that my parcel from Coolair will be with me on Tuesday the 4th of May by 18.00. Say what you like about JK but I ordered from them both on Monday the 26th April and the JK one turned up the next day! AAAAArgh

 

But you possibly couldn’t get what you wanted from JK?

 

That's a fair point, it was a superfluous order, I'm quite careful in only buying either branded items, non critical items or items that are sourced from the same manufacturer as all the other suppliers.

 

Yep, same as! Never had a problem with JK to be honest, but I only buy what I know is genuine and sometimes that means a biddy order to determine provenance.
In fact I've just remembered I've got an order in my basket that I need to push the button on.
Our suppliers get a roasting, but to be honest without the lemons there would be no lemonade

 

Shame ...Coolair do a 24hr Fedex, my brake drums just arrived yesterday from a Tuesday lunch order? Fedex managed to miss the house and took 48 hours but thats Fedex for you.


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Fit the original oil pump

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Fed Ex parcel arrived I've fitted the cam bearings and the camshaft to check the oil pump clearance, I've taken a photo and I'm hoping it looks ok. The right hand oil pump stud looks a little high though, I'm going to remove the nut and see if the stud will screw in further, there is also the gasket which will provide a few extra thou when fitted. The camshaft endfloat is virtually undetectable, I was going to measure it with a feeler between the cam shoulder and the face of the cam thrust bearing but it's too small. Everything turns nicely which I'm pleased about, next step is to dry fit the case halves, torque up the main and cam bearing bolts and make sure everything feels ok before finally sealing them up.

 

I check the pump clearance without the cam thrust bearing. With the cam pushed against the bearing saddle if it will turn without touching the pump there will be at least 1mm clearance when the bearing is fitted.

If you knock the cam back and forth with a mallet a couple of times it should settle the bearing and give 2 or 3 thou end float. Don’t try to run it with less than 2 thou thrust clearance, if necessary, take some material off the bearing.

 

I've screwed that stud in so that it's level with the others and rechecked the clearance without the cam thrust bearing, as you say there's a good 1mm of clearance. Knocking the cam forwards and backwards has indeed settled the bearing by making the lip over the edge of the saddle squarer (if that makes sense!), I can now just get a 2 thou gauge in there.

Cases now together, sealed with Curil T and all torqued up., progress.

 

I had to leave it for a few days but it's now actually back in the bus . Not exactly drama free, fortunately I had a ring clamp that fitted and got the pistons, barrels and heads back on. The fan housing fan and alternator was fitted twice as I didn't realise that the 2 pieces of tinware that wrap around the barrels behind the fan housing had to go on first. Oh and dropping a nut into the inlet port when the valve was open, (of course it was), when the engine was finished necessitating removal of the head set me back a bit

 

And?

 

I've only got as far as getting it in, fitting the bottom two nuts, the moustache bar bolts and the starter motor.

The problem I have now is the carbs, The bus was originally fuel injection but the PO fitted a central progressive carb. A couple of years ago I purchased a complete twin carb setup from @davidoft that I've never got round to fitting until now . So before I strip and clean them I thought I'd dry fit them to see how they go together but I have a couple of issues.

Probably me being stupid but,

1. The bar that links them together seems too short, even without the spacers fitted, If I fit them them it's a long way out?

2. I assume the central pipe connects where I've circled with rubber hose, any idea where the small port in the centre goes?

3. Both manifolds have a take of pipe, I assume the N/S one goes to my servo and the O/S one I can blank off?

4. The throttle cable on my bus is in the centre of the engine but the fitting on the bar is right next to the O/S carb?

 

Best way ..a bike jack and a board ,makes it an ease getting in and out

 

There is a spring and cup that take up the slack in the carb linkage so @davidoft where is the rest ha ha They are quite often missing when people sell them as they drop out on the floor. The spring is £2 the ball bit is about £8.

 

On the 4th image of your pics what is the purpose of that grub screw on the side of the carb just above the carb fixing nut .
Mine keeps working loose on one side only and dropping down onto the foam engine seal ...twice now wondering if i should put some loctite on it ....doesn't seem to make any difference in engine performance off or in .

I can only assume it is to secure something into position .

 

https://www.justkampers.com/021-129...-bay-1700-2000cc-vw-t25-2000cc-1979-1983.html
You want one of these Paul, it fits in one end of the bar with a spring behind to take up the slack

 

I have no idea either, I'm sure someone more qualified will be along later.