Fruitcake Type 4 engine rebuild - Finally started

Aw shucks, thanks He's not quite as good in the flesh as the photos, but then he's meant to be driven

PS there's a T/E story on this very subject that's worth telling too, if you're into Beetles. However, it's sort of thing to relate in person over a malt, or a beer or two around the campfire, we should save it for Summer

 

Oil light could have been just worn bearings too letting too much past too.. mad eworse by your pick up not picking up. Worth checking the pump out to keep either that or new as a good spare

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Yeah, this makes sense to me too, also Type4 oil pressure is often lower than Type1 when the oil is nice and hot.

 

You may well be right although the bearings look good and I haven't got any of the tell tale rumble or knocking. Do you know the best way to strip the pump?

 

Theres an index with links on the first page of the second build i did, hopefully this link.works

[*]Oil Pump

open it up with the 4 little nusts off the back.. the ones that catch the cam if you put a new one in without skimming avbit off the gears ;-)

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I can see how it comes apart but the two halves are stuck solid! I'll have to put it into a soft jaw vice and persuade it with Tommy Tapper or his rubber headed cousin.

 

Ah yae sorry.. they do like to remain as one. But the gentle persuaders you mention will 'rock' them apart... then its the thinner of the two rubber rings in the kit I think when they go back together.. some say packed with vaseline to help prime I just got them gloopy with vaseline

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A strange thing to say.

 

Thanks I'll give it a go later.

 

Why?

 

Seems the other way around to me. lol

 

Must just be differences between engines.

 

Stripped the pump this morning and discovered that the o ring has gone hard and a piece is missing that corresponds with the varnish stain on the pump body. I haven't got the kit to measure backlash but it's tiny, is it less than 0.2mm? I can't say but it's under 0.5. I'm leaning towards refitting the original pump and banking on the pressure issues being a combination of knackered Hydraulic lifters, weeping from the pump body and a loose pickup pipe. Would you and @MorkC68 agree?

 

where did you get the new oil pump,i didnt think they were available?
Rob

 

I think a little click when you spin the gears back and forth is ok, a rattle is right out..check for scouring on the pump case too and make sure that pin isn't drifing out


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I think the one in the photo is @Fruitcake s original oil pump.

He was thinking of replacing it, but others suggested he sort out and reuse the original one.

that is how i read it anyway

 

The photo is my original pump but I've ordered a CB Maxi 1 from Coolair, all the advice seems to be to try and reuse the old one though as @paulcalf said.

 

The backlash isn’t so critical as the end float; what does that measure? 0.07mm is good.

The original pump will almost certainly be a better fit in the case than a new pump. CB (Schadek) Maxi 1 pumps are often undersize on the diameter, loose in the case and leak internally. If the engine bearing clearances were in spec the low oil pressure could be a leaking pressure relief valve.

Don’t forget to check the clearance between the back of the pump body and the bolts to the end of the cam. It should be okay but that cam was used with a modified pump.

 

@Deefer66 , @MorkC68 , @77 Westy , having inspected the pump thoroughly I can confirm that:-

There is virtually no scouring on the pump case
I don't have a surface plate, V block or dial gauge etc to carry out any proper measurements but the end float is undetectable and the backlash is tiny, (very unscientific I know!)
The length of the pin is 24mm
The length of the shaft is 42mm and neither looked like they've moved.
I'll check the pump to cam gear bolts with some feelers and report back when I fit the cam properly (thanks for the reminder)
I'll check the pressure relief valve, that's a good call.