Fruitcake Type 4 engine rebuild - Finally started

Cheers Phil

 

It's to hold the venturi in position inside the carb though in reality it doesn't matter if it's there or not, it's just if you take the carbs off the venturi can slide out. Mine hasn't got the screw on either carb though if you have them you may as well Loctite them in but the venturi can't come out while the carb is mounted on the manifold anyway.

 

Is your throttle cable in the centre like my bus or over to the O/S carb like the bar?

 

My throttle cable was in the centre I pulled it back out of the engine bay above the gearbox and repositioned it to the side of the carb.

 

I had this problem, the width of the central hex bar is dictated by the manifold design, I had to purchase a longer hex bar from CSP, as I had CB manifolds and not CSP, and the bar length was set for CSP.

 

Mines a bit harder to relocate as the bus is an auto and the linkage is a solid bar from the kickdown lever on the gearbox, only the last couple of inches is a cable. I think I need an a hexagonal bar with an adjustable fixing point like this one

 

CB Performance and CSP both have adjustable cable pivots, but be prepared for a cashectomy, there must be another way?

 

Mines over towards the nearside(left), yours may be different because it's an auto.

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My cable comes straight out in the middle, I need to get a bar that has an adjustable attachment point for the cable

 

What air box system do you have as if it’s same as mine and @philntfc then the cable will come out behind the air filter I assume that’s why they moved it to the left hand side.

 

Can you get the mount from another hex bar and use that on your bar, Paul?

 

My bar is round, It looks like I need to source a new bar.

 

The reason I asked was I have the old CB pivot, which you can have for postage, but it's designed for a hex shaped bar, I am not certain you'd get it to stay put on a round bar?

What about a bell crank linkage? If you flip the pivot around your cable might be in the right place? https://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/bell-crank-or-hex-bar.89865/page-2

I went with the CSP hex bar when I replaced my CB one because my cable was in the wrong place for the bell crank, also I don't have a hatch. But even that wasn't a straight swap, the CSP kit is for IDFs, not quite the same as Dells and the hex bar's length is dictated by the offset of the manifolds, so the bar, as designed, is set for CSP's manifolds, I had to buy a new bar, that was more expense

 

Looks like the stock air filter will be in your way. I take it your linkage from the gearbox has been altered to suit the single carb you had? You might have to adjust it back to stock to best work with the stock carb/filter. VW must have made different bars for autos I'm guessing (from dim and distant memory). Maybe cut and shut your bar?
The Servo take-offs had a metal pipe between with a T off through the tin to the servo on the n/side - worth having as it's also a balance pipe, part of the system.

You wouldn't be able to slide it onto the bar which has welded fittings each end.

 

I think the best thing to do for now is to refit the original carb to get the thing running and check that it's all ok and treat the carb swap as a separate job. I hadn't tried it with the airbox on so I don't know if it will foul. Moving the position of the cable is a problem as it's a solid rod from the selector arm on the gearbox with a threaded end for a short cable to attach, so it's pretty much fixed. I can get the spring loaded end piece for my bar and weld a bracket onto it to accept the cable, if it fouls the airbox I'll then have to fit individual filters.

So for now I'll finish installing it and try and get a tune out of it later this afternoon, Smoke me a kipper, I'll be back for breakfast

 

Paul, is there a fault with your old setup?

I don't want to stop your fun, but you said, you don't use the Bus too much, but enjoy it when you do, and you just wanted it to work reliably, right?

If that's true and the old carb is fine, why not stick the old carb back on and sell the dual carbs on to recover rebuild costs?

 

A wise move I reckon. I see a few missing parts like the rubber grommet things around the carb tops to seal the air filter arms and those choke screws, the servo steel pipe and it's rubber elbows (if you were close I'd hand you one), all kinds of different size pipes to join the spider thing (idle circuit). BTW the small spur connects to one of the two under one of the filter "arms" and on from other connection to the flap valve on the inlet to the filter.

 

It's no fun believe me, the existing setup works ok apart from a small flat spot on pickup, @zedders has also noticed some issues with the twin carb setup. I'll put it back together as it was later today and spend the effort sorting out the flat spot, recovering some cost is a very good plan cheers.

 

Never do it all at once is a good motto maybe.
It used to be a classic at techenders that someone would change their carb, distributor, coil, HT leads and plugs all for unknown pre-loved ones, set the tappets and timing for the first time ever then puzzle over which of the many changes stopped it working. lol
One thing at a time.

 

Sounds like a plan at least you know your current carb works with the slight caveat that a single centre mount is less than ideal on a type 4. This way you can get the engine running and see where you are with the twin carbs at a later date.