Thats what i thought he meant. Think i will get one ordered actually so i dont have to plumb the thing twice.
The regulator I fitted has a gas test point incorporated. Here is a link. It comes in 10mm or 8mm, straight or 90' and your gas man will love it as he can connect his manometer directly to the system & tell you how safe your spannering has been! Or get your own manometer & incorporate a test into your annual service. Why would you not....!
Incidentally, done correctly the manometer test is effectively a fool proof leak-down test. By testing the system under pressure the manometer will indicate minute leaks over a short period of time, say 5 minutes. It's not only good for testing joint leaks but will also let you know if the appliances are safe. i.e. how do you know the old hob you have is not leaking into the van! Planning your system so you can isolate the appliances with on/off valves will make testing and fault diagnosis a lot easier.
Indeed my old hob used to do exactly that. Are we talking putting a test point on fixed systems or all sytems. Ive never done a standing pressure test on mine but i suppose it wouldnt be difficult , especially as it can be done from one of the bayonette connections. Think i will when ive redone it but ive no idea what the perameters would be.
& if you can't fit the regulator I linked to (coz it requires M20 pigtail), stick one of these in line, just after the regulator & before any joints, taps & appliances. Cheap as chips. gas test point
You know what Dicky, I'd be inclined to have some method of testing any system that uses gas inside a habitation area. Is it overkill? Do many people die every year from bad instals? Probably & probably not respectively BUT who's going to be the first one on here to prove the negative!!
Agreed. Spose its also down to how perceptive you are if you do have an issue. How many buses have a system installed that hasnt been looked at by anyone with any technical knowledge for 30 years or more? How many westys come over from the US with their systems in tact, including refillable tanks that are just put straight into use. Thats scarey to me. Im not too worried about a refillable with a bog simple system of pipes and unions. Im probably understating what i do as i usually use a sniffer and attend to any weeps. Occasionally, if i get a whiff i will check again. Im not as gung ho as i may sometimes appear and i suppose im doing a disservice to those not in the know by giving that impression. It may be highly unlikely that any of us will be engulfed in a fireball but it must happen, also unlikely anyone would be asphyxiated due to a gas leak either. The killer in CO! However youve got to be a darwin award winner to manage to monoxide yourself to death in a bus!
Last one from me regarding the morbid side of our passion but it follows on quite nicely from a conversation Dicky & I had this morning. Please, please get any system checked over professionally before you use it and if you are even a teeny bit unsure about what you are doing...get someone in who does know to do it for you. A gas check costs less that 2 nights camping! We've had a bit of a laugh regarding the merits of flexi over copper & whether to use ptfe or paste but the following link drives home that accidents can & do happen. Now let's see some more pictures...
Rain stopped play yesterday but wanted to get it fitted and then removed again before it went for welding tomorrow so its easy to fit when it comes back as want to use it shortly. Couple of pics. As i will be repiping it later this year when the belly pans come off and i hopefully have the underside fettled the gas route was a bit limited. Ended up coming through where the drain hole is to the front of the nearside rear arch. Teed off the bottle flexi after the push fit connecter and kept it seperate to the existing system with a new isolating valve (8mm quarter turn ball valve. Checked for leaks and left it running for a bit. Need to pop out and strip it all out after tea lol!
Thanks for that. Will be the first of a few visits to the welders this year i think. This is mot stuff and its .. Nasty! Anyway stripping the heater out again now. Looking forwards to putting it back and leaving it there lol!
Nice work @Dicky Shame you have to take it out again so soon! But I guess it is for the greater good I've not worked with 8mm copper before. It looks very pliable. Is it all like that or do you have to specify a certain type? Also the shut off valve that changes the copper to flex - is that a single part or have you made it up from separate components? Any links gratefully received
8mm is a complete arse to work with be gentle, it kinks very easily. Be prepared to scrap a few piecesand you will need fittings if it anything like tight. Sometime......flexible is better, you cant get around it! Valve is a quarter turn ball valve suitable for lpg with the olive and nut disgarded to one side and a female fulham nozzle screwed on and sealed using Calortite. Try Hamiltons for bits, including sealants and tapes. Dont use sealants on olives and I wouldnt use tape myself but some do but omly on the threads and not over the olive. The calortite or tape needs to be used when you go male to female. Read this! http://www.thomson-caravans.co.uk/advice/diyprojects/gascompressionfitting.htm And hamiltons are here? http://www.gasproducts.co.uk/index.html
Oh yes, if buying valves get the foot mounted ones and screw it down, clip your pipes too where you can. You do need to practice. I do actually have some gas fitting experience from many moons ago and it worries me a little that people might copy me or do what i do and not quite get it right. I managed to end up with a leak today in a bloomin awkward spot. Likely i will also fit a gas regulator with a gauge for peace of mind. I will also be securing that bottle! Dont know if gauges are avilable for camping gaz as ive not looked. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Propane-G...0d80932&pid=100005&rk=2&rkt=6&sd=201494036334
