Engine noise, I think. doesn't sound good.

I agree with Paul in that it would be good to get someone with some experience to have a listen as they may well be able to recognise the noise in the flesh as it were. Alternatively you can run it and use a stick-o-scope (stick pressed to ear and onto various areas of the engine) to listen for where the noise is coming from. Also use you hosepipe-o-scope to listen for exhaust leaks which can sound mechanical.

I see you're in Nottingham. If you were in Ely I'd be round in 10 minutes for a listen. Perhaps someone local will volunteer.

 

Hi

I have attached image below which show a rattling plate which the bracket that is welded to the heat exchanger? Is Brocken off . There is a subsequently a hole in the exchanger. Could this cause the noise?
I have had the engine running and had a listen around and think the noise maybe coming from the left hand side.

 

Prod the rattling plate while it's running and see if the noise abates or changes?

 

Hi
yes, i tried that but it made no difference.

I have taken more video see below.

 

Have you tried stick/ear/engine block or heads. I hate to say it but it sounds like big ends. You might be best to stop running it and strip it down though if it is big ends there'll be nothing left of one of them apart from the steel backing which will by now have damaged the crank journal so damage is done.

 

Hi
I have just used a stick and had a listen around the engine.
Put it on the block at the side of the pulley and on the left and right rocker, when on the left rocker cover I can tell that it sounds different to the other two areas.

 

Look in there then. Are you sure it isn't just an exhaust leak? So difficult to tell from the laptop speaker...
A length of hose will find that.

 

When I had a look in the left rocker cover earlier there was a lot more oil in there than the one on the right.
I will have another look and recheck valve clearances, it was my first time checking earlier so maybe I done it wrong. I will try again.

How do you use hosepipe on a valve?

 

When all else fails drain the engine oil and look for debris both in the oil and around the Filter plate.

 

No, you stick one end on your ear'ole, run the engine and point the other end at likely exhaust leak points. 2ft-3ft should be about right.

 

hi,

just checked valve clearance again and they do seem ok. ran engine for a short time with cover off and oil was dripping very quickly. someone said there may be a small amount of oil in the rocker cover but this seems far to much. it seems to be from the left front but cannot get my head high enough to confirm. The oil is black but doesn't smell burnt.

have a look at video and give me your thoughts.

Thanks, i appreciate all the advice guys.

 

Oil will pour out of the rocker cover if you run the engine with it removed

Oil is pumped up the pushrods to lubricate the valve train, it then drains back down the pushrod tubes!!


Do you have a local vw club? You could ask a member to pop round for a look?

 

What Paul says.

@Paul Weeding noise is about 8 per second = 480 per minute = about half tickover = cam speed?

 

That's what I thought, hence why I suggested checking the tappets... could also be an exhaust blow... I would have to bung the big headphones on to have a good listen!!

 

Actually it's 4 per second but that is cam speed I think.

 

When I left the flywheel nut loose it sounded a bit like this.
It changed when I pressed on the clutch . At some rpm points it went away and clattered worst when pulling away. At 4000 rpm it was not audible.

At tickover though there was visible endfloat. At higher speed it sounded like something hitting the tinware.
By the time I had finished I had taken the engine out, stripped it down to the longblock , took it to SGS aircooled and they managed to convert the crank to eight dowelled to cover up the oval dowel holes in the crank and flywheel. Gave me back the shredded endfloat shims. Plenty of metallic oil round the destroyed crankshaft oil seal,ans sludge on the sump plate and magnetic plug.

The clue was the wobbly flywheel when I dropped the engine..

Saved the cost of a days labour pulling the engine. Still cost me £380..

As for ramps vs stands. If your work area is level you can use axle stands. If there is any slope to it then use ramps.

And get a high lift jack. It helps give you clearance to get the engine under the rear valance.

 

Hi morkc68

I'm in lowdham, notts.

 

Hi all

Had a colleague come and have look tonight, he has a beetle and used to have a number of bay's years ago.
He had a listen a thinks it's flywheel loose.

Anyways, I think it's time for the engine to come out, as a newbie doing this for the first time I'm nervous but excited.

All the wiring marked up and out and all covers removed, heater pipes disconnected and I think I'm ready for engine bolts.

That is it for tonight but hopefully I will be taking engine out tomorrow. Just got to get my jacks, blocks and anything else I can think of.

Thanks

 

http://www.ratwell.com/mirror/Muir/loosefly.wav