Engine noise, I think. doesn't sound good.

Hi all
If i do decide to get the parts myself. What parts is it advisable to fit and what other jobs are worth doing while the engine is stripped on engine or back end of vehicle?

Thanks

 

Minimum a new crank and all bearings that run on it.
But be aware that you might then have a running engine that will soon fail again if the case has been damaged. This is why you need the case checked/machined/replaced. Any second hand engine will need the same so might as well see if you got away with it? Did you drive home fter the crank snapped or stop straight away? In my case I didn't really trust what the thrasher may have done and my replacement engine was cheaper than a bit of machining so I simply chucked the whole bottom end and cut to the chase.

 

Hi zed.
The noise started less than a hundred yards from home so it wasn't running long. At that point I never even considered a snapped crank. I am going to have a crack at a new crank and rebuild along with associated parts of course. Does anyone know of someone in mitts that can check the case as I don't really want to send it away.
I am starting to put a list of parts together. Will clean and check heads tonight.
Morkc68
I agree the break is fantastic and looks great. I don't really want to part with such a beatiful specimen but am willing to do so for the price of a new crank.
You and the boys in the lab could have hours of fun.

 

Could your fuel tank do with a clean?

 

Definitely take the tank out and replace all the hoses. Also check out the condition of the fuel filler pipe. Maybe get the fuel gauge sender checked out. change the starter bush also it is dead easy with the engine out.

 

Looking at the books available and the two I like the look of are the tom wilson air cooled rebuild and Laurier Pettit Haynes air cooled. Anybody know which might be best.

 

Laurie's book isn't finished and Haynes are no longer going to publish it. It is still going ahead and being published by Bentley, but I wouldn't bother ordering it just yet. They are going to do an initial run of 30,000 copies when it's done and 30 people are working on it to get it out so they must like it.

 

Thanks zed

Tom wilson book it is then. I will get that ordered tonight.
Parts ordered tomorrow, hopefully.

Thanks

 

@Wheelhouse
Is it an optical illusion, but to me (with Trifocal specs) there seems to be a lot of distortion of the crankcase main bearing housings plus a (crack?)
Also one of the conrods appears bent.
Is it really as it appears in the photo's?
Tony

 

Hi tony
Not that I can see, but will certainly check, check and double check.

Thanks

 

If you are really unlucky, and the crankcase is scrap, have a bit of fun, go down the garden , light a really hot bonfire, and chuck it on.............its Mag. Alloy, very spectacular when you get it going, but a little smokey!!
Did it years ago in Africa, very easy to set it alight.
Tony

 

If you think about it, the crank must have had the room to flex for it to break.

 

Something gotta go if crank get stuck, mine did , bearing closest to the flywheel was the reason. Heard a funny noise when i crossed the 402 mark at the pod.
Flywheel came off sat a new pb @ 14,73 so was a happy lad.

 

Come on boys let's think positive. New parts bish bash bosh, up and running, next weekend away. Happy days. Beer for every reply to thread as a thanks for advice. When I say beer for every reply, I mean that I will have a beer for each reply, not give you lot beer.

Having said the above I am obviously apprehensive and cr*pping myself.

 

You see what I was talking about...........great fun!!
Tony

 

Good ones are forged. Most cranks are drop forged. The really good ones and most expensive to buy purely because of the nature of manufacture, is billet. You're buying a lot of very expensive metal to machine it all away. There's nothing wrong as such with cast cranks but it depends on who has cast them

 

If you plan to reuse that can make sure you know which lifter came from where, and stand it up on its end and protect the lobes as they're easily damaged