I didn’t pop the new washers on mine, as per VW guidance. The ones that go between the cv joint itself and the shaft
When you're rebuilding it CAN easily be built up 'wrong' in that the CV is solid . Unless you've been meticulous and marked the races there's a 50/50 chance of getting it wrong. If the joint is solid , don't panic - just turn over the outer and rebuild it properly. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Lots of videos on YouTube.... I must have watched hours of them, then the thread on here about putting the balls in correctly before I even went under the bus ..... information is King.
You know they have a small step on one side of the middle part? I've seen older ones that don't have the step and do need the washer to fill the gap.
Has anyone recently purchased any CV joint kits ? ive got some complete shafts on order but they are weeks away and as advised by @davidoft the quality is poor ! the other question is when changing both CV joints on a shaft do they need to be replaced at a set rotation from each other ?
@bluerustybucket These will work if you get stuck. A bit overkill maybe for a standard T2, but they're an alternative. 924/944. Used as a direct replacement on lifted vans due to greater angle of articulation over standard. May need an extra 5mm on CV bolts as I believe they are ever so slightly wider. Maybe a couple of mm, but haven measured them yet. Part numbers included just in case you can get a deal on tinter web..
Count the splines - Although the fixing bolts are identical and the shafts are the same length, the Porsche driveshafts have coarser splines - this caught me out - some PO had swapped them, the CV joints wore out and I bought replacements . Then I had to buy some secondhand driveshafts off eBay. Needed cleaning up but £40 a pair.
