Poo! Both bottom rear corners are rotten, as some bafoon welded over the top of the already rusted corners! Do now: inner and outer valance, D posts both sides, and bottom rear corners. Schofields doesn't sell just the bottom corners, but the whole side.
There are some well made rear corners on the market that include the light apertures. They have the holes for the light cluster screws too. They fit really well. I paid £100 each for mine. http://www.alanhschofield.com/ourparts/prod_3696258-Rear-Corner-680mm-Left-7279-211813357RT.html
Thanks, I was hoping for just the bottom section just below the bottom of the light. Trying to keep costs reasonable. Looking at ordering, the parts minus the corners and already looking at £175, and now and angle grinder as mine just smoked and died!
The cheaper Klokkerholm lower rear corners are so badly finished you will wish you never bought them. I went to Schofields as it is near me. We looked through lots of them to find a decent one. I ended up buying the £99.00 corners and using as little as possible. The best thing about them is that they are smooth and have the return lip to weld to the rear wheel arch panel. If I remember right it cost me £600 to have that area of the van welded (including panels). It then needed painting. I feel your pain.
Deep down, I know your right, and once it's done it's done. I have no idea how the D posts fit as was hoping for some pictures on here, but photo bucket packed in! Majors resto, I heard had pictures of the rear valance fix. Will update my resto thread at some point.
And so it begins! The cheaper corners will fit if you only want the bottom bit, & use the bare minimum, & keep your existing seams & light aperture. Otherwise spend the money. Likely when you get in there the lip of the battery trays will need some work.
Check the chassis legs too. I had to do those as well as all of the above. That meant repairing the swoopy tins on the rails and the battery trays. Took me 6 months, one day a week. What you can't see is the bit of angle iron a 'pro' restorer stuffed into the rotten cross member then covered in filler and painted. The rear valance was tacked onto the remains, so it looked ok from the outside. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Look at the photos on JK of the D posts, it should make sense. They're easy enough to make yourself if you only need the bottom 3 inches or so. If I can find some photos I'll post them.
That would be great, thanks. I will try and post some pics. Because I need a few inches up on the corners, Im a bit reluctant to want to buy the whole corner.
Where are you based? If you are buying the lowers. Ring the suppliers and ask them to pick out 2 that are not ripples on the curved areas. The problem with them is that they are not well pressed and they have lots of ripples in the panel surface. Some are better. It just saves lots of time with filler and sanding once they are on. As said. They do fit but need lots of work when painting.
In Cardiff. And agree. Just checked Gsf, who no longer have the bottom corners in stock .... Boooo! But there are some early corners.....hmmm.
This should give you an idea, the d post bits were formed in a bench vice with a block of wood & a hammer. The curved bit round the back was bent over a rattle can. & yes I did weld captive nuts back in for the bumper brackets
I see your problems now. Check out the condition of the chassis legs along side the engine. Looking at the LH side corner, are you sure you are going to get away with just the lower corner section?
Cool, that is lucky. Its a ball ache replacing them as its engine out You should be able to fabricate stuff to repair the ends where they meet the D posts.