We had a localised 228mm flywheel shortage...just that one. It didn't leak much before Flakey fitted the correct 12mm seal (not his fault) so I'm guessing like me, Rob had flush fitted a 10mm seal and avoided the groove...probably on purpose. The new one has a groove but it's narrow and there's no pitting where I aimed at.
Another thing, for my notes, I had to loosen the clutch cable half a dozen turns. The old flywheel had been skimmed in a lathe. Call me a pessimist, but that's quite a lot of adjustment, I wonder what it's balance was like after the machining. My guess is iffy... I waiting for the wind to die down a bit (as forecasted) before I spill oil everywhere...and thinking about CV boot changing. As I have to work on the ground or in the van, in the van it is. I'll have to have a massive tidy up first. Not today then.
Oil in, filter pre-filled and fitted, battery connected, servo pipe connected, started, stopped, rocker cover off, loose rocker shaft nut tightened , valve clearances that side checked for good measure, cover on, started and warmed up a bit, set the mixtures. Started tidying up. Now, if it still pops on overrun when it's tidy enough to drive...it must be something else - I'm confident it won't be an exhaust leak.
Damn, blast and bother, it still pops on overrun and sounds like a tractor under load...like a BIG exhaust leak...but I can't detect one. This is beginning to annoy me. And that thermostat is knackered. Under the spring tension it stretches and doesn't allow enough movement plus expands within a minute of starting up just ticking over. Better news is lack of oil leaks as far as I can see.
The exhaust hasn't fell apart internally has it? I had this recently on what was otherwise a fairly new solid exhaust. Although I'm sure you would of heard some rattles when you took it off.
Still can't detect a leak. Compression 175-185psi and all 4 got there in 3 compression strokes. That rules out cracked exhaust port or burnt valve? There was no sheen in the oil from the case or the filter, the oil was barely blackened so I'm calling cam and followers good. I'm going to have to refit the old silencer and see what happens. Knowledge is power. On the bright side I can get a pair of AA casting 42 x 36 heads for £900+ import duty at the moment or £1130 + for AMC castings. I wonder If the AA ones are any good, I didn't know they were casting type-4 heads. Not that I need heads...yet, though I feel like bagging a pair for some reason.
And just for fun I watched the valves go up and down on all 4 lobes. I'm putting off refitting the old exhaust for a test, it's hot outside.
A bit rushed and I pressed start a few seconds late, but in each location I blocked the exhaust with a rag for s few seconds. I'd already done the test for much longer before video. I don't think it sounds too bad? I'm not hearing exhaust leaks?
At least with the aa heads you will be able to lesson your current deck height and regain some squish
A different sound to a type-1! Not without turning the barrels down 2mm and having 9.8:1 CR or finding 78cc chambers. No easy choices.
A different sound indeed it sounds diesel like until you rev it What’s the chamber cc on those aa heads? Can pistons be had with the pin located higher or lower to suit?
I actually don't want to do it! I just want it to sound ok under load and stop popping in the silencer on deceleration.
I was just thinking about it with you mentioning the aa heads that’s all. With regards to the noise under load and the popping are you thinking it’s all down to the design of that vintage speed exhaust?
Right now I don't have a clue. If I did I could do something. I can't think it's the exhaust design. Next thing will be old exhaust back on to see if it's coincidence or exhaust.
