Ref my thread about crank seals I ended up fitting a 10mm seal in to a 12mm recess and pushed it right in against the inner face. Done a couple of hundred miles now and it seems ok
It’s good to know the fan housing can be removed with the engine in place no, I didn’t have a Wear groove. I had Victor Reinz and Elring 10mm seals. They looked better than my Simply Bearings 12mm seal.
Both the Type 4 cases I have are 12mm recess. One is a single relief CJ, the other is double relief recon with the code removed. The single relief CJ case in the bus has a 10mm seal flush with the face, but that doesn’t help you at all, sorry.
It's all helpful thanks.. I can be pretty sure my case will have a 12mm recess. I have a 10mm seal so I have options. If the weather is ok tomorrow I'll get stuck in.
I suppose I should get on with it. It's tricky here just to find a pile of bricks or blocks to rest the heads on after I lower it down and spin it round. Blocks of wood? No chance with 30-40 multifuel stoves on the go all winter. I'll need something to steady it when I torque the flywheel up for sure. I'll go for a mooch...
Engine bar off and engine off gearbox. There isn't enough room to spin it round but it pulled back a fair way. No engine roof hatch so I had to lean right over it. I ended up with a 10mm seal fitted flush. The sealing surface is about 2mm closer to the face than the 12mm one. I reckon I'll be on a good smooth bit further onto the flywheel. I also fitted a new graphite impregnated o-ring - dry as one should. Not a lot of people know that. Checked crank end float before removing the old flywheel. 0.004". Spec is 0.003" - 0.005". Very good. Checked end float after fitting the "new" flywheel. 0.0033". Tight but scrapes in. I'd prefer 0.004" but I don't have time to mess about getting shims. It should be ok. Replaced the fan end crank seal, polished up the hub and refitted it. Engine is now back onto the gearbox and the engine bar refitted. Oil filler, the pesky bellows, fan housing, fan and alternator next. I'll see how my back feels.
Ah so. Fan housing, fan, alternator, oil filler, dipstick boot alternative, carbs, fuel lines, wires to starter...fitted. Next up coil and distributor wiring, CHT thermocouples, oil temp and pressure, thermostat, servo vacuum and decide whether to do the push rod tube seals. I might leave them for now, they're not too bad and there's no time gain doing them now. On the other hand the heat exchangers are off and the under cylinder tin could do with a tweak. At that point I'll have completed the oil leaks diversion and I can fit the filed heat exchangers free from things like heat risers and the alternator bar. Here's my bellows lash up.
Head says change the push rob tube seals, heart says look the other way. Hmm. Head...heart...head...heart... Better do them now I suppose...and the fuel pump blanking plate could do with resealing.
I started...then I saw this sealant around the tube holes and I don't have a sure fire way of dissolving it so...I left them...this side anyway. Rather annoying TBH.
Thermostat and cable, HXs, risers and control boxes are on. Gauges wired up, alternator adjusted, CHTs, plugs, coil wiring, a few relays, carb linkage and cable reconnected. Here's my most excellent end float measuring device. And the old flywheel. Groovy baby!
All done apart from oil and filter filling, reconnect the battery earth and the servo pipe because I pinched a clip for my dipstick bellows bodgery...and reconnect the fuel tank breather - the last T piece lasted 2 years and was probably split a while before I noticed. Dark in there...
