Compression issue? Parts and guide to fix

Bentley Workshop Manal and a couple more from the links at bottom of here...


https://www.baypride.net/bay-window-type-2-bus-reference-resource

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I think cams once past the hardened bit wear faster, with new lifters on an old cam probably even faster.. but I'm guessing...

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I just want to check, you do know that low oil level will stop the tappets from working correctly don't you? Sorry if this is obvious, I'm trying to gauge how much you do and don't know

 

If the follower faces are worn .then the cam lobes will be too. So if you buy new followers ,the hydraulic side of things might get better but it will be short lived because the old cam will damage the new followers.
When followers on a type 4 don't pump up with oil they are REALLY noisy , they sound like the engine is completely knackered.
Compression test next.
All 4 plugs out for this test on an open throttle.

 

I understand how the engine works in theory but nothing to detailed. That said I would say I am quite good and taking things apart and a quick study.

By the sounds of things if it is not getting compression which my very limited knowledge think it probably is.

I am assuming I'll need to take the engine out? Will I need to get ramps and an engine Jack?

 

With all due respect if your asking do i need ramps and and a jack to take the engine out you need to get someone to fix it for you. Its DANGEROUS taking an engine out especially a type 4

 

As Garrick says don’t attempt engine removal yourself. It’s better to get someone who knows what they are doing if just to help with removal.
Before you plan that stage I would want to determine what the problem is. Do the compression test first.

 

All got to learn one way or another there are plenty of video on removing it. The thing is I can either give it ago and try and fix I myself or leave it till probably next year when I'll have saved up enough to pay someone which I'm not keen on.

As we are all going to have to holiday in the uk now I'd quite like to have it fixed for summer .

I'm sure with the amazing support of everyone I'll get it running better then ever

 

Wooooaaaahhh calm down, anybody worked out the actual problem yet?

 

So

Do you have a compression tester, timing light ?

 

On my way home now compression tester waiting for me there. Will update as soon as I can

 

Standing at the back look at the engine 1st imagine back left, then front left, then back right and I need an socket adaptor

 

left back/front - Is that the side you filmed?
Best way is take all plugs out and it's essential to be on full throttle to let the air in. 100psi a bit low but they are all even...so far.

 

I filmed the side with only one photos, I think when I manage to get the last plug out.

 

So that last one you couldn't do is the one you particularly wanted to. Ahhhh!!!! Sods law in action.

 

Anything below 100psi is not great but not disastrous. Below 70psi is foobard.
If the last cylinder is around about 100psi I would then check the timing. At about 3000rpm you should have a total advance of 28-30 degree before TDC.

 

Is timing likely to slip as I drive it?

I have a feeling in my gut that the last one is going to be around 80psi, this is only a guess.

 

Not much point in guessing, test it

 

If the last guy to set the timing forgot to tighten the clamp - yes. I did that once and it did slip. Looking at the video I did wonder if it looked a bit advanced (rotated too far anti-clockwise), but it's not easy to do more than educated guess. You need a timing light. You do want to know how it's set now so don't move it to see if it's loose. Finding how it was set when your problems occurred will be very useful information. Then you can set it right...if it's wrong...and try that.