Can anyone tell me how much brake fluid I'll need to do a complete change of my fluid? Also, can anyone give me any tips for the best way to do a complete change? E.g do I remove all old fluid first and is there a wheel sequence I should doing etc. Only ever bled brakes before so not sure what I should be doing for a full fluid change. I'm going to be using a one man bleed kit for doing the bleeding bit... Thanks. Nick.
I just opened all the valves with a bottle under each one to catch it and strated pumping fluid through untill all the lines were starting to run a nice clear colour and wasnt a off brown colour anymore . then did them all back up and then bled the brakes as normal one by one . you can get a bit of tubeing with a one way valve in for a couple of quid off flea bay which makes life a bit easier some people suggest to start at the furthest wheel from the master cylinder and work back towards the front "which is what i tend to do " think it took about 1.5 litres but i did make sure i had pumped loads through . some people say it dosnt matter where you start . dunno if the above is "correct" but its the way i do it and it seem to work for me Oh and make sure the reservoir never runs dry otherwise you will have to start over again ! the main thing is that all the air is completely out .
Wheel sequence is: rear right rear left then either fronts as they're on a central tee Fluid wise you'll need 1 to 1.5l. I generally drain the system first, then whack the new fluid in!! But that said, I have a vacuum pump, so that makes my life a little easier!!
Oh and if your front calipers have the bottom bleed nipples, drain them from there, as it'll pull the sediment out of them!!
rears are on a T as well so they don't matter which order either? Then the whole thing is dual circuit i.e. front and rear seperate circuits, so it doesn't matter whether you do front or rear first. In short do them any random order that takes your fancy and it'll be fine.
The rears are on a T, but the rear right is the furthest from the MC, so technically you should always start with the furthest wheel
Thanks. Any tips for getting them to undo nicely and not snap off? Is it worth putting some penetrating oil on them the day before?
Yeah, a bit of oil never hurts... feel them, as opposed to grunting them... They're a hollow tube, so very easy to shear!! If they feel like they're not going to move, then use some heat!!
From experience you'll probably find a spanner slips as the nipples will be coroded to a certain extent. I have a lovely pair of quality molegrips. I use these carefully on the flats to get them moving- not too tight, remember they're hollow. Jiggle. Works 99/100. If they're really coroded, they'll break whatever you do.
Yeah, that's what I use!! I'm with Zed too... a spanner is generally ok if the nipple is ok... but even then I alway crack it open with a long reach 6 point 1/4 drive socket... failing that, then I go to Zeds method
I go for a soak in plus gas the night before Then a deep socket and tighten a fraction to crack them before attempting to unwind Mind you ive come across many bleed nipples that resemble a rivit of the titanic and the only way for these is heat and very good quality mole grips and a whole lot of prayer When they snap build them up with weld and use the mole grips on them whilst still hot Easy outs should be called harder to drill outs
I would change the rear cylinders completely and I am tight... what condition are the pipes and hoses in?
I have always bled from the furthest from the master cylinder but in the bentley manual is says Front right Front Left Rear right Rear left
And if the one man bleed kit is such that you require a tyre to provide the nec energy, do not start at anything but minimum pressure ,say 10psi , unless you intend to paint cab afterwards <>,go on ask me how I know that?
