I've never had problems with the hydraulic switches. The handbrake travel is adjusted separately from the rear drums. You should have a front belly pan, and seals under and on top of the brake and clutch pedals.
Neither have I. Slacken the handbrake cables right off and then adjust the rear drum brakes. Then adjust the handbrake cables and bingo you should rejuvenated brakes. It's on my jobs to do list and although it's PITA you'll be really pleased how much better your brakes should work.
Thanks nicktuft, but my brakes work really well already. The problem is that the lights don't come on under light braking, though they work fine under heavier braking, and with the switch bridged. I followed the Haynes rear brake adjustment procedure, obviously with the handbrake off and so already slack. It now takes 6 clicks to feel the handbrake begin to bite, and 9-10 clicks to really firmly apply the handbrake.
Thanks Snotty, my pedal pan appears to be mising, as do the seals you mentioned? Thought it was a bit drafty! It doesn't look like these pans are available as far as I can see. The handbrake travel definitely reduced after rear brake adjustment, or certainly seemed to. I followed the Haynes manual procedure for the rear brakes but didn't bother adjusting the handbrake. How many clicks should you hear? Do your brake lights come on under light braking then? Cheers
Has this always been like this or have you recently bled the brakes. If so there could be some "residue" in the system causing minor blockages with the pressure.
Good question! When we bought the bus, we had the whole braking system replaced. That was over 9 months ago. Recently, the wife was following me in her car and she picked up that the lights didn't always appear to be coming on when approaching stops or turns. I looked into it and found the problem. Since then I have, replaced the three pin switch that was on situ for a three pin JK one (bled at cylinder), checked the electrical system by bridging the switch (all ok) and trying all the possible connection combinations of the two wires to the three pins on the switch, adjusted the rear brakes, and bled the whole system. Brakes are really good and pedal movement is 4.3cm from rest to total extension. That doesn't seem like a lot to me. When we got the bus you had to really floor it to get the bus to stop. Not any more!
Last year we had fun crossing France with one van with brake lights that didn't work. It was a b@gger to trace the problem; the lights came on when the switch was bridged, but our meter was showing continuity across the switch's pins when the pedal was pressed. Anyway, 7 euros later we had a new switch which did the job. There was an article on an American website which I can't find now that disected two or three aftermarket switches and showed how inferior the new ones are. With the frequent switching on and off there's a lot of arcing that goes on that builds up residue on the contacts. Anyway - I think all your tests show that the new three pin switch is dodgy - I'd heartily recommend 7 euros' worth of 2 pin switch!
Thanks mcswiggs. What make of switch did you go for? At 7€ that doesn't sound like a genuine VW switch!? Cheers Rob
@Bluebelle I modified my brake light switch to eliminate the delay inherent in all brake lights operated by hydraulic switches. With a switch on the pedal the brake lights come on as soon as the pedal is pressed and before pressure builds in the braking hydraulics. The pic shows the simple brackets under the floor and on the pedal and the switch on my LHD Bay.
Nicely done... I think. You should get a set together (switch, bracket & wiring) and flog it. Won't make you rich mind ....
It was from the French equivalent of Europarts, and definitely not a vw part - something like Delco. It works fine, but best to buy two!
And the electric switch should be safer. The brake lights should come on fractionally quicker. That's why manufacturers moved from pressure switches to electronic ones. I think it was Volvo that did it first, as the fraction of a second when belting along the motorway can make a big difference to the distance you travel before the lights come on.
I decided to buy a genuine VW two pin switch at £25.85 inc. vat, rather than risk another cheap one. Should hopefully install it over the weekend. Anyone got any tips for installation of the switch so as to avoid introducing / trapping air in the master cylinder or the switch. Last time I screwed it in partially, got the wife to press the brake pedal to expel some fluid, then tightened it as she still had her foot on the brake pedal. If this doesn't work then I will look at putting in something like Westy 77 has. Cheers
Thanks Westy 77. They all look a bit ropey, certainly not rust free. No one producing new ones then? Ta for the pics of your switch. If the VW pressure switch I have ordered does not work, then I will look to replicate your installation. Cheers
Some of the new (maybe all ) BMWs brake lights flash under really heavy braking .... beats the Audi nightrider indicators
