Ok, so replace one of the three pin switches for a two pin switch then. The connected three pin switch is new though.
There is resistance in the brake pedal more or less straight away. The switch is brand new, but it is a three pin switch and yet I only have two wires.
Change it if you feel the need. The only difference between the two is that the 3-pinner has changeover contacts, one of which you're not using. Or...try the two wires on the other switch.
Based on the absence of the B light, it seems I should have the two pin switch anyway, but I will hook up the other three pin switch first and see what happens. If no joy, then back to JK. Cheers Rob
It is best to buy the original brake light switches still available through VW dealers @£21.54+vat, might seem expensive compared to pattern parts but they do last. Two pin switch part number 113 945 515H +
I couldn't see the numbers, so I just tried all four combinations (one wire on the middle pin in each case). Using the middle pin stopped the lights working at all. So, gone back to how it was, and still got the same problem. As the brake pedal feel is solid, I don't think adjusting the rear brakes, if they will take any adjustment, will make any difference. So, I think I will change the switch to a two pin switch. The decision now is risk £5 on a JK special, of go for a £25 switch from VW? Any other thoughts? Rob
You might think the one from VW is good value if this happens to a JK part. Note I’m NOT saying this is from JK.
Correct; but there are brake light switches and there are brake light switches. Some end up like that^, most don’t - are you feeling lucky?
Ooooh - you can get a genuine Porsche one for an extra fiver! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Brake-Light-Switch-113-945-515-H-/152150301194
Well, today, I have mostly adjusted the rear brakes, which made bugger all difference to the brakelight issue, though it did reduce the handbrake travel slightly. I then bled the brakes, at each corner, using an Eezibleed, set at 10psi. Never again! The cap on the resovoir wasn't perfect, and it leaked a little oil out of the top of reservoir. It did get some air out to be fair, but for next time I think I will buy one of those simpler systems with a non return valve instead. The pedal feel hasn't noticeably improved, it was already good. So, the brake pedal has a small amount of free play, 1.6cm (measured from the middle of rubber to the hole in the floor pan). After that it starts to bite. From this point, it is only possible to move the pedal down about another 2.7cm in total. The brake light will come on at 2.2cm i.e. o.5cm from the end of the total possible pedal extension. In which case, under light braking (brake depressed up to 2.1cm down from first point of resistance) the lights won't come on! Not good! Pedal measurements - 20.3cm at rest 18.7cm free play ends and resistance felt 16.5cm brake light comes on 16cm Total possible pedal travel (measured from the middle of brake pedal rubber to the hole in the floor pan) I assume with these pressure based brake switches, it's not just a case of "this is how they are"?! I'd like to know, as if it is I will install a switch directly off the brake pedal instead. If not, I'll try a genuine VW two pin switch, as there simply isn't anything else left to try and it's really pi--ing me off now! Cheers Rob
This^ was the answer for me. I bought two 3-pin switches and was going to add the wiring for a warning light but I thought this just isn’t a good idea and ditched the hydraulic switches for one on the pedal, now the brake lights come on just before the brakes – like any other modern car. If you’d like some pics of the switch and brackets I’ll take the pedal pan off tomorrow and take a couple.
Thanks 77 Westy. That's damned good of you! Which switch and bracket did you go for? I assume you just disconnect the wires from the hydraulic switch and connect them to the new pedal switch? Also, pedal pan, what's that? I can see the ground through the hole in the floor pan where the brake pedal goes through. Something I am missing perhaps? Wouldn't surprise me! Thanks again!
The switch I used was for a classic mini, part number 13H3735. https://www.minisport.com/13h3735-brake-light-pedal-switch-mk3-1976-on.html The brackets were homemade, one to hold the switch under the floor and the other on the pedal to operate the switch. The existing wiring was shortened to suit the new switch position. This is a pedal pan-
