Best Exhaust System ?

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Rocketboyuk, May 29, 2019.

  1. Perhaps the torque thing is more apparent with a heavy bus. I think I ruined the low rev performance of my previous bus with fat J -tubes and a VS exhaust on a 2l with big valves and a C35. I'm more cautious now but I still don't know enough to be wise about it.

    And flip yes, S/S exhaust take your skin off if you brush against them, nasty.
     
    JamesLey likes this.
  2. I think the only way I know, on a Bug, would be to buy the various cones and spend an afternoon on a rolling road. I am not that serious about the racing. In my humble, it's incredibly difficult to build a car that is both street and strip these days when a 12 sec quarter is considered average. What works for one type of car, comprises it for the other use.

    The Python is a neat, compact package that is well made and much safer for not having a hot exhaust protruding from under the rear apron.


    I am going for the stealthy sleeper look :D
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2020
  3. ...which is what CSP said to me years ago about the cones. Back then they refused to advise on cones at all, which were then £40 a pop - "try them all and see". At least now they sell them cheaper and say generally what they are for on their site.
     
  4. Like you I can see what the cones do, but getting the right one, that doesn't comprise the top end.....is an open question without a rolling road. Three times £30 for three cones and a £100-£200 plus on the rolling road; you can soon see why serious racing, costs serious amounts of money.
     
    zedders likes this.
  5. The cones are kind of the other way round though? For de-tuning what is essentially a racing exhaust, so really it's just the street kids who'd want the cones and those who like to drive to the strip for kudos?
     
  6. I think we're agreeing, in that they improve low down torque at the expense of the top end, right? I don't want to sacrifice my top end, that's where the fun is, when all hell breaks loose :D
     
    zedders likes this.
  7. Yes indeed. Mine was ace from 3500rpm to 6500...hot snot! ...but pretty annoying the rest of the time in a bus which was 99% of the time. Now, I don't give a hoot for max HP, I want my HP down low so it's torque torque torque to get that. I have more HP than a 1600 flat out... at 1500rpm. If I had a bug I'd be going the opposite direction like you are and aiming at the holy grail of 200WHP. :thumbsup:
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2020
    F_Pantos likes this.
  8. Perhaps when this current engine breaks, note I am resigned to when, not if. However, at the moment what I have is enough of a handful and I am certain it's nowhere near 200WHP.
     
  9. TBH 200 doesn't seem attainable reliably. 150-170 does though and bugs are scary if not down right dangerous to drive over 70mph anyway? Not much help having super dooooper suspension if it's trying to take off!
     
  10. Koni Reds help a lot, dunno how they do it, but they do and flop stops help under braking :thumbsup:

    Tho' the flop stops can make adverse chambers an interesting driving experience :eek:

    But I agree, above 70 and the wind gets under them.

    Mine's only 76x90.5, enough for now, will probably never go 92 or 94 as the piston's walls seem a tad thin to me. My next engine will be a) hopefully a long way off b) 82x90.5, assuming I have the money at the time.
     
    zedders likes this.
  11. Having a lowly 1600 I didn't NEED or WANT a 'performance' exhaust. A NOS boggo Ernst popped up on ebay so had a bid and got it for 30 quid ...
    10 years and still going strong



    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
     
    Deefer66, 77 Westy, Dubs and 2 others like this.
  12. Phoenix made the exhaust I bought from VW speedshop, stainless still going strong 15 years later
     
  13. @zedders CSP also suggested that I buy all three cones, so I didn’t buy any. On the 2.0l there was no noticeable loss of torque without a cone compared to the Empi twin quiet pack – but the Empi really is a poor exhaust. For the 2.3l CSP said the 42mm Python was too small, but that’s what I use. The exhaust goes from 38mm heat exchangers to 42mm primaries to 63mm before the silencer.

    I’ve just had a look at the CSP site, as you say the they have added some information as to what the cones do and for €29 I might try the 1.75'' – but delivery would double the price so maybe I’ll wait until I really want it, and that might be a while.
     
    Deefer66 and zedders like this.
  14. 99% of stainless exhausts will be 304 .. 316 and 316l would crack

    Doesn’t matter how expensive your exhaust it’s the heat exchangers that are the restrictive part ..

    Buy from heritage when they have a 10 or 15% off day
     
  15. Do you use CSP's exchangers?
     
  16. No, aftermarket exchangers, but probably the same as the ones CSP supply for oval port heads.
     
  17. The pipes on my JK single quiet pack went purple and are now just about indistinguishable from mild steel in colour. The silencer box would be shiny still apart from the grot that has burnt onto it..
    They dont corrode but the flanges on that exhaust are mild steel as were the bolts provided for connecting the collector to the silencer. So instead of galling up and having to shear the bolts with the jack on the breaker bar, they rusted up and I had to shear the bolts with the breaker bar. So I could get at the crack I had created
     
  18. I skinned my knee on our exhaust when our engine spat out a spark plug near Milton Keynes. Screwed the spark plug back in properly and drove the remaining 100 miles with pus oozing from my knee! Lovely.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  19. I was responding to rustic loaf's comments about the quality of stainless steel rather than specifically exhausts. Yes the most common material in s/s exhausts will be 304 but I have seen 316 used ,it depends on the component and the method of construction. It is possible to make a poor 304 exhaust by using poor techniques.
     

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