Yes and yes . Can the arm be fitted in any other position than what you've set it at ?? Been a while since I've taken the arm off ... Spring looks to be too far down / unwound - not enough tension as zed pointed out but I've had a spring break and it didn't affect the clutch action . When I replaced the front beam I seem to remember having a similar issue where the cable had kinked as it enters the chassis at the front . Undid the cable from the arm and gave it a hefty yank which pulled it straight and in line - was a hefty yank mind .... Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Part of tube cable runs inside had been cut plus cable was over long, made up the slack with a piece of 15mm copper pipe that sits nice in the Bowden. All seems OK. Checking brakes and gear selector tomorrow and can hopefully move on its own steam. fingers crossed. 1 x bolt not tight as will run tap down it tomorrow as it not right. Cheers for help & advice.
It's a very shallow hole, if the bolt is too long it will bottom out and strip the thread before the bracket is tight.
Seriously, before the thread gets knackered, clean out the hole with carb cleaner, and thread and glue a short stud into the hole locking it with Loctite or JB Weld. Its what e.g. Bears did when they rebuilt my gearbox, one of the two threads was really on the edge of failing, so my gearbox came back with studs to hold the bracket on. A nut on a stud is a longer lived solution, if you have to keep removing it, because: A bolt can slightly damage the soft metal of the gearbox casing every time you insert it, while a nut on a stud is steel on steel.
And the new clutch Bowden cable on mine was missing a bit of tube where it joined the conduit. Had to recycle the tube pulled off the end of the old tube.
