Well finally sorted the support bar and fitted the external oil filter mount (am having some pipes made up from a hydraulics place). Went to slot exhaust into place and Boom hits the bar So going to need some Jiggery Pokery tomorrow any words of wisdom would be gratefully received.
Out with the grinder! Only need to take a bit off (off of the "V" flanges on mine). 4-into-1 exhausts always clout the stock backbar at some point.
Mine pretty much did that after fitting the beetle engine adapter. But grind it off a bit like snotty said.
A bit of grinding on the bar, a bit of Spanish Windlass on the header, jumping on it, to make subtle alterations to the position of No2 and No4 flanges relative to the header. A few dinks with a hammer on the exhaust tube..
If the header does hit the bar, and is firmly in contact, it wont rattle. If it is close, the two pieces of metal will batter each other into producing the necessary clearance... Also look at tinware clearance - I found the tinware above was battering down onto the header until I made and fitted the little bits of metal round the heat risers that tie the rear tinware to the head tin with a screw into the head tin that stops the whole thing flapping up and down at the back.
Loosen head/heat exchanger bolts, lift the exhaust via the silencer fitting, it looks like it's hanging down and rotated into the engine bar. Yes, I know the webs need grinding off too.
Its always the thing with exhaust systems, poke all the pipes together, get the flanges over the studs on the heads, then start tightening the nuts and clamps to pull it into shape. If you start tightening things too early before fully assembling you find things like heat exchangers with outlets that miss the header by 1cm.. Then at the end they still dont line up then you see the letters E .. M.... P .... I ..
Managed to crank the exhaust slightly and few taps of the persuader and its fitted. Next problem: Fitted a new Clutch Cable and it seems too long, thr cable was new and came with the Bus so not sure if was right one. The wing nut it's almost fully wound on and still have slack.?
Most likely the wrong cable, they varied in length for both LHD/RHD and over the years. It'd be worth checking the bowden tube is in ok condition and has the correct "S" shape to it, and that the end of the main guide tube hasn't got a broken weld where it attaches to the torsion housing. They can often snap off.
The Bowden tube & bracket was missing so these are new, it's a 1973 LHD but the bag with the cable in was faded so not sure if correct. Was thinking could try put a piece of tube to extend at wing nut end to take up slack to just try. The other end is just an s piece that just locks in so nothing can do at front end.
Snapped a cable in forrin parts and for years ran a 10mm socket as a spacer to get the tension correct . I seem to remember the only suitable clutch cable I could find on the whole island (Kos) was bizarrely for a RHD so if you're stuck in the desert... Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
I recently had to use 5 washers to space a new clutch cable - between the outer of the bowden tube and the bracket on the gearbox. Dont put them under the wing nut- the ridges on the wingnut and grooves on the clutch lever on the gearbox act as a pivot hinge as well as an anti- rotation lock. If you put washers there, you lose the pivot and start flexing the cable strands uneccesarily.
So I got it wrong place then? The gear box level does not seem to have power to return? This is a refurbished box
Do you have a side on view of the bowden tube? It looks like it might not have enough of an S shape to it. The washers go on the end of the bowden tube where it meets the bracket.
