Advice appreciated, intake valve on number 2 cylinder stuck open

Past caring to be honest, I know what works and how to fix my own van which is a pretty selfish way to see things but it isn't worth the effort suggesting possible solutions for others .

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Well……..guess not everyone knows about oil?

 

Did Bruce get an answer to his question?

 

Not sure. I think that WAS the answer, when I put the ‘which oil’ post up, in that particular group…

 

I'm grateful for everyone's advice. As with most things, it seems there are many conflicting views so I suppose it's a case of looking at those views and making your own decision in the end. I think I've come to a decent compromise on the oil debate with the Morris 20w-50 which I'm happy with.
I was diligently keeping the oil to the correct level but we did hit some unprecedented heat and some major climbs so the old bus was put under much more strain than normal.
But she started first time throughout and never let us down so I think the valve seat or guide theory is favourite.
I've started the prep for the engine drop and should be on it again Thursday so I will let you know what we find

 

That is just complete nonsense.

 

I have sen that, or something like that before though…

 

Must be right then.

 

I’m not sure it’s completely wrong. Another answer there was “it depends on location”…
Some say ‘use plenty of zinc in the oil’, some say ‘zinc isn’t needed’, some say use diesel engine oil. It just goes on and on…

 

Exactly. Spin in circles or research it yourself.

 

Any oil is better than no oil!

 

No Waitrose Coconut and Jojoba?

 

That’s only if you have hydraulic tappets

 

One thing that goes with the valve seat idea is that it may have run badly straight after start up then the valve seat gets pushed back into place by the valve so it runs properly, and it tends to stay put all the time the valve is slamming it back into place at running speed, plus it warms up and expands.
It only has time to fall out at cranking speed.

We had one at Techenders a few years back like that. Drove to Techenders, no loss of power but had zero compression on one cylinder when tested cold.

Further investigation found one valve seat was loose.
With the expensive performance cylinder heads on that engine, repair was worthwhile but with a stock 1600 new vs repair is less clearly defined.

 

Plus most of the valve guides were loose!

 

I think Project Farm on YT has done extensive testing of oils. May be interesting to revisit that as I can't remember the outcome. Brilliant channel either way.

 

The weight of the oil has to do with the running temperature of the VW aircooled engine. The shear strength of the oil at the running temperature is what protects against wear. So the same weight grade of oil made by different companies may protect your engine a very different amount. Additives other than zinc have been developed to protect catalytic converters. So some low zinc oils are better than some high zinc oils.

 

By gum, this is mind boggling. Being a bit of a novice I had no idea what a mine field this oil thing could be. Remind me never to mention the O word again.
Seriously tho, this has got to be one of the best forums for a brilliant mix of serious advice and very funny good hearted banter!!

 

It isn't a minefield 15W40 or 20W50 from the suppliers suggested above. Sorted! No further discussion required.