Advice appreciated, intake valve on number 2 cylinder stuck open

Would have liked to have changed the Flexi hose as well but I can't shift it. New cable is running freely now so Flexi hose will have to do

 

It is meant to come out but its probably rusted in.
I have replaced mine.
Probably best to just make sure there is a lot of grease on the new cable. So when you take it out it coils around you and draws big black lines on your overalls.

I also had to make the swaged "bullet" on the end of the throttle cable more pointed as it kept catching on the join between the tube and the Bowden cable .

 

Hi Mike,
yep it's rusted in solid. I tried penetrating oil, tapping with a hammer and old screwdriver, turning with moll grips, etc.
I should have thought to change it when I had the engine and gearbox out..... Hindsight eh.
I also ground the corners off the bullet but there were so many broken strands in the old cable when I finally got it to pull through so I think it was those that were stopping the old one working and stopping me pulling the new one through.
I've put plenty of grease on the new one and it's working well now

 

Right, I eventually managed to get my throttle cable working. The new one was marked as definitely for my 73 RHD bus but, after the major hassle of getting it threaded through, it turned out that it was about an inch short! The thought of trying to get another one in filled me with dread so I decided to weld the bullet from the old cable onto the end of the bullet on the new one and that seems to have done the trick. I've also took Lastys advice and fitted a helper spring on the pedal lever so the throttle is working fine now.
I've then done a decent 20 mile test drive, together with the 50mph to 20 thing about 5 times. Then I've rechecked the valve clearances, adjusted the carb, reset timing, changed the oil and flushed the strainer.
There's lots of silvery swirls in the oil and it looks very dark for a 20 mile run with a little fine sludge around the strainer but there are no flakes or chunks of metal so I'm hoping this is to be expected.
I tried to do a compression test but unless something is seriously wrong and I have zero compression on all 4 cylinders, it looks like that bargain Chinese compression test kit I got off eBay was not such a bargain after all. I'll order a decent one and do the compression test shortly.
The old bus has now been evicted from the workshop by my lads boss ..... Fair dues really as the initial ask was a month that turned out as nearly 6!.….. she drove the 30 miles home well, but a bit sluggish so I'll need to tinker and tune a bit but all seems good so far.
Thanks again for everyone's help and advice during this epic.
I still need to get that front beam done but looks like I might have to do that at home without the luxury of a two poster.
Stand by for more dumb questions ......

 

The shiny material should stop appearing in the oil after a couple more rapid changes.

Its one reason I prefer to have full flow filtering because any bits of metal dont keep orbiting the engine and increasing the wear by getting into gaps where the oil film should be taking the load.


Cant help with recommendations on compression tester.. mine was bought in Halfords in 1985..


I have had once to make a welded thing from threaded studding and a screw clamp to grip the end of my accelerator cable (I think it was once an EMPI part as pictured below..) and screw the studding into the heim joint on my progressive linkage.

The EMPI cable shortening kit comes with this BTW ...
It can clamp onto the bullet and lengthen it...yes. lengthens it despite the name.
It can also grip the end of a broken cable if it fatigued off at the ferrule, although if you keep using it on stranded cable, the strands work their way out one by one leaving you stuck until you dive into the engine bay and reassemble it.

So if the cable does break, unclamp the bullet .. and fit this thing to new cable.. its easier than having to weld an extension on to the new cable.

 

Right, an update on the running in phase.
I've covered the first 200 miles and all seems well, still a little under powered up hill but no worse than before and to be expected I think for a 1584 Type 1.
I've just done my second oil change and there is still a bit of fine silver sludge with the odd little soft fragment of soft gasket seal stuff on the top of the sump plate but next to nothing on the strainer and no noticeable bits of metal.
So looking ok so far.

 

Following my overheating problems in Italy and Greece last summer, I've also fitted an oil temperature gauge (with a oil pressure relief screw sensor) and an oil pressure gauge (with a combined switch and sensor where the oil pressure switch usually goes).


I'm getting about 60psi on cold start up, about 45-50psi at about 45-50mph once up to about 200F and about 25psi at warm idle.
Does this sound about right or is it a bit high?
I have a standard pump, no external filter just the standard strainer and I'm running 20w-50 oil at present but thinking of going to 15w-40.

 

They all sound about right. If everything's in good shape, about 10psi for every 1,000 rpm is a good rough guide.

 

It's barely warmed up. Try 60mph to see what happens to temp and psi. I suspect the pressure won't get higher.
If it makes you feel better I get over 80 psi cold with 15w40, similar to you at speed and temp quoted but above that the pressure stays there until it's properly warmed up fast on a motorway where it settles back down a bit at 42psi. However hot the idle stays at 20psi once it's warmed up a bit.

 

Ok thanks chaps, that's good to know. Seems like we are tickety boo then. The rebuild was daunting for an absolute novice first timer and I was doubting myself a few times but it was brilliant to have the backup of you guys and this forum.
She's running lovely now so I'm really chuffed with how it's gone