set my tappets today and all was good till i got to no4 inlet it was closed tight so backed the adjuster off and off and off but it wouldn’t open I’ve had the rockers off they seem ok the spring on the valve moves ok if you push down on it ideas anyone plz
what's it like if you take the rocker gear off, and put a straight edge across the tops of the valve stems? They should all be level... Type 4 motor? if it is and the valves are ok as per the check above, then it could be that the push rod isn't seated in the lifter properly!!
Not good it was a very sluggish Just nipped it over to be looked at by my Vw bloke At it ran as bad as it sounded
Right he's had a look for me And has noticed that the exhaust stud on no3 is knackred which would explain ruff running so I am going to replace that tonight hopefully it is also not fireing on no3 Which may be down to said problem above but still doesn't answer the problem of no 4 inlet valve So if the exhaust stud doesn't solve the problem or turns to poo I am thinking of getting a new head for it do they NEED to be fitted in pairs also a lot of places are saying bare head/ or valves need fitting so will this one do or am I buying more work http://www.megabug.co.uk/cylinder-head-vw-1600cc-air-cooled-twin-port-up-to-1979-complete-with-valves-3644-p.asp
Did he not stick a ruler across the valves with the rocker off? If its not the rod out of the cup as Zed suggests my money would be on a weak valve spring causing the valve to bounce and sink the seat I myself would only put the knackered head on not the pair.
Zed was right AGAIN I ve also managed to get a little adjustment on the dodgey tappit ^^^^^^thats no 3 ^^^^^^ not no4 that wouldn't adjust me n fletch drilled out and helicoiled the dodgey exhaust stud so all looking positive again
hows it run now Steve - I mentioned this problem to my Dad, he said its gotta be the pushrod as first port of call...your sorted now, brilliant!!
