1. with the engine running should the engine stop running if both leads are pulled off the battery ? As mine dosnt it just keeps running . 2. i want to eliminate a possible wireing problem can you run a cable from the +side of the battery direct to the + side of the coil to power it ? if so do you need to remove the ignition live wire to it while its powered ? thanks
Don't be pulling the battery leads off, you can cook your alternator doing that It will keep running BTW as the alt is producing 12v!! What fault is occurring?
^this. Alternators don't like working without a load: you'll knacker the regulator and/or diodes. The engine will run, powered by the alt: you only need a battery for starting. 2. Yes. No need to disconnect the existing wire.
meant to say its a dyno ! i didnt actually pull then off they were just loosly on while was doing something and i knocked the + one off and the engine was still running on a previous thread to do with possible carb problems ( and found a loose stud on the carb ) , i have totally redone everything on the engine all off and sealed and tightened back on so im 99% sure there are no air leaks anywhere . ( wd40 test dosnt produce any results either ) . But still haveing a problem with the lower revs with it struggleing to pick up any speed and as mentioned if i hold the carb open about 1/4 throttle it really struggles to stay running its not untill i open about half way the revs will pick up and run with some power . ive even borrowed a known "good carb " and tried that but still the same , so someone mentioned it may be an electrical problem and to run a lead direct from the battery to the coil to cut out the ignition wire ?? i know the actual ignition system ( leads , plugs , rotor , cap ect ) are good dont know about the condensor , but i put a 009 with elecy igntion in and timed it up to try that and still produces the same results . its driveing me mad
It may be the distributor, can you borrow another and see if it makes a difference and are you sure the timing is ok?
yep the timeing idles at about 7 ( which is where it seems to like to fall to ) at 3000 or so rpm its advances to 30 with vac line disconnected , and with connected it will advance to around 40 saying that is does jump a little on idle between 7 and 9 ?
ive got that set up mate >oo9 and electronic ign , flat spots out about where yours does ,I understood that was expected due to set up ?? so much I have seen on sites re the said 009 flat spot ,(I live with mine )thou for me its no big deal , I realise yours may be real hassle(or simply a pain in/on the bum?)
the only thing i havent checked are the head nuts , but you can only get to the lower ones carnt you ???? without yanking the engine ? Also are they about 23lbs of torque ????
thats the wierd thing it idles lovely and sounds ok its just at the lower rev range it struggles especially under load , if i rev the nuts off it and slowly slip the clutch its not too bad at picking up speed , or if i accelrate from stationary and very very slowly accelerate and the same in the next gear its ok , its just when you drive normally untill you hit about 2500-3000 rmp in any gear it will just stumble and theres no power
