1979 twin slider #projectTed

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by leflipflop, Sep 8, 2019.

  1. Hello to everybody...

    I thought i would try and document all the repairs and restorations i plan to carry out on Ted over the next 2000yrs

    I've started at the back lower as that seems the be the worst part (thats visible)
    I've removed the Rear valance outer skin to show that the inner is also in need of removal. From initial assesments the rear outer lower corners have been done before and seem to be ok. Lets hope i can access everything without the need to cut more.

    The rear chassis legs also need looking at.

    Thanks for looking

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  2. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Moderator


    Would make a refreshing change if that is the worst part. Good luck :thumbsup:
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  3. Those rear corners are going to have to come off or be slit and bent back out of the way I’m afraid as the bottom of your d posts have rotten.
    What are your battery trays and bottom of the rear arch tubs like along with your chassis rails?
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  4. Chassis rails at the rear are dog poo.. they are coming off. Lol.. my lack of knowledge of the t2 at present ...D pillar? I will try google

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  5. Love this... thank you very much for the info. Much appreciated. I will get underneath one evening and take a look to see the extent of the rot.. will make a decision on how to get to those areas from there..likely cut the corners out.

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  6. Hi Flipflop, thought I might venture a suggestion or two. How you go about the work very much depends on whether it is to be a running restoration, in which case nibbling around the edges might be appropriate and give you some some use and practice. But if you intend to go the whole hog and to be honest its a lot of time and effort, then I would advise stripping off all the running gear, cables, wiring etc, get her on some sort of roll over frame and work from the bottom middle outwards. Do outriggers, jacking points and any chassis channel repairs, then sills and floor frames, floor repairs then base of B and C posts then push on outwards to arches and upwards to side panels. This is drastic action and might be avoided if the bottom core of the van has been well repaired before or is otherwise sound. There is a lot of fun on the restoration journey but its always better going forward, so do a full assessment of what you have to deal with and make a plan that avoids backtracking on any effort. Lots of good books out there on the subject. Great to hear about another one being saved.
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  7. Martin..
    Many thanks for your post.. a t2 has always been a dream for me. Growing up in the southwest meant alot of visibility of these amazing machines.

    So its a bare rolling shell essentially. So the time to do it is now. My restrictions are single garage and driveway. I doubt a rollover frame will work for my situation.

    I would like to drop the running gear out as i can get it blaster and powdercoated where it allows. But what to sit the shell on to allow ease of movement.?

    What ive noticed so far.
    ♡Rear side skins, previously a panel van so theyve retrofitted windows.. the skin is rusty around them.
    ♡everything aft of the fuel tank area may be a bit cruddy.
    ♡panel between rear arches at 45 degrees need work.
    ♡front left arch.
    ♡frontleft seatbelt anchor point.
    ♡ one or two minor areas on rear floor.
    ♡jacking point etc.

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  8. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Moderator

  9. Ooohhhh lovely... i shall return the new haynes i bought and get this. (I have an old haynes too)

    Many thanks

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  11. [​IMG]
    Catch you up one day Jim

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  12. I’m on the next project matey! Catchup!

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    Adam Benjamin likes this.
  13. Yeah just reminded me I need to follow your beetle thread for the next project

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  14. So got on with some more today.... right rear rail was shot so used the full length of the repair chassis rail pretty much. Battery tray was also done for.

    Removed the engine shroud structure? Which attaches to the rail... found a few holes underneath.. cleaned it up and plated it. Started to install the repair leg...

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  15. That is big bold surgery and bodes well for the longer term, do take lots of photos and measurements to make sure it goes back together properly. One of the big mental issues is the balance between the desire to see progress Vs the avoidance of returning to a work area. But you have to get the bones right first and the skin comes later so a great start. Make sure the captive nuts for the bumper mounting irons are in the correct place perhaps by comparison with the NS. If you use one of the aftermarket D post bottom repair panels it may be fitted but worth checking alignment.
    Merlin Cat likes this.
  16. Thanks for the positive feedback martin.

    Well ive used the engine hangar bolt as a datum for the rail. I.e measured a set distance from the same point on each rail.

    I have the lower d pillar repair part with captive nut already installed. My only issue is i dont have a rear bumper to assure correct alignment for width measurement at present.. could i find this measurement anywhere?

    Replacement battery tray is very snug and requires fettling but will address that once the rail is in. Long winded but worth it.

    I do have a question.. fwd of the repair patch i put on the rail. There is a " pillar" of some sort... viewable in the wheel arch also.. inline with rear end of tank i would say.. is there any replacement parts for these or if required just home make some?

    See pic[​IMG]

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  17. Hi Kevin, I measured the distances between captive nuts for the rear bumper supports on my 79 van and they are 1080 across the van and 95 between rear 2 nuts on each side. Not sure there is a replacement for the bit you mention, I assume its purpose is to reinforce the junction between the upper body and chassis rails. If I have the right piece it is the other side of the stiffener just behind the shock absorber top mount pillar, NS of mine:
    inner arch stiffener.jpg
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  18. Martin..
    Thanks for the input. Most appreciated.
    Small update.. welded in the remaining rear section of the rail.. started forming a rear section for the inner support which i highlighted above.. coming along well. Hope to have that welded in this weekend along with inner arch area.

    The white/grey areas are where ive removed any existing surface finish/corrosion protection .. treated and now primed.

    Update soon.[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  19. Good evening everyone!!!
    Some more updates over the last month. Been minor due to xmas and shocking weather but i'm staying positive and excited to get this corner cracked so i can start the left corner.

    Whilst the weather has been pish i have also started attacking the Rear Hatch... i thnk it came out well and i had issues blowing through material on low settings with 0.8mm welding wire so changed to 0.6mm with much improved results..

    Attached Files:

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