Hi Lefty, quite tricky getting on with old thin metal, and the recommended regime worked well for me. Lots of small tack welds to "stitch" the pieces together and then repeat tacks to fill in the gaps without any big concentrations of heat. Also minimises distortion which will be more important when you do the external panels. I guess if your kit is at lowest setting them 0.6 will help, also consider a bit more gas to cool the weld. Concur Somerset current weather...….. only good for the withies.
So cut out the left rear rail yesterday.... D pillar Lower too.. Have a new rail already. Going to make an angle piece for the batt tray so I can reattach all that once the new rail is in.. Once I have some spare pennies I will order a d pillar section. In my spare time of an eve I have managed to start buzzing back the rear hatch.. Found a nice dent fillered so cut it and started spotting in a new piece Sent from my YAL-L41 using Tapatalk
Nice solid work. Keep it up. What is the white Electrik box in the left engine compartment?? Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk
Thanks Andy. Elec box is a household plug box which had to cables with quick clamps on the end? Assume its for a leisure battery maybe? From previous owner. Sent from my YAL-L41 using Tapatalk
Extended the d pillar repair piece as wasnt long enough for what I needed... I plan on working it out.. Cutting the corners to the correct length required and jogging the remaining. That way I can spot it and also help keep the lines.., But fiddly making the bends but v happy Sent from my YAL-L41 using Tapatalk
You leave way too much gap between your parts. You have to build up a lot of welds to fill it. Try to tighten the gap next time and it will be much easier. Keep up the good work
Thank you for the advice guys.. Aware the gap was a bit big.. Just couldn't be arsed to cut another lol. . Appreciate the support .. Newbie welder learning every day
Wasn't meant critically my friend....I learned to weld on my bay, and now I do it nine hours a day, five days a week as a job. I've made every possible mistake, ballsed up in every way you can think of so if I can help someone avoid the same eff ups I learned the hard way then I'm always happy to give advice
Thank you Luis... Any advice is always appreciated.. Watch some great YouTube mig tips and tricks to also try to increase my knowledge.
No worries....pm me if you get stuck with anything. When I was first learning I relied pretty heavily on advice from Zedders on here....the tips he gave me we're basically what got me started and kept me going on my never ending project, or I'd probably have given up and sold it on! Happy to gift the good turn forward tbh
Zed was a massive source of knowledge for my restoration too. He still messages me little tit-bits even now. Top lad!
Overlap the parts and run a 1mm cutting disc along it creating the right gap for welding seems to work OK if you've got the space to get the grinder in.
Small updates below.. *Rear right corner is nearly all done. Cannot progress the lower d pillars until I have mounted and aligned the tdi motor. Keeping the rear valance off etc until that's all done to aid moving the engine in and out. *Engine bay door is coming along nicely. Couple areas cut out and welded some new patches in flush. Painted using rustoleum combicolor. *Started the left sliding door, large skin piece purchased and inner lower structure. All cut out and new structure piece spot welded in.. Just fiddling with the corners before I lay the new skin down. I buzzed back the inner face of the structure, applied two layers of neutrarust 661 and have since primered it. Thanks for all your help to date on this forum. Sent from my YAL-L41 using Tapatalk
I have stripped the jalousie window down also. New seals will be on order.. Deep clean and will powdercoat the frame the same Ral code as the rustoleum paint I'm going. Will ensure the mechanisms are clogged up etc so no concerns there. Sent from my YAL-L41 using Tapatalk
