Type 4 engine builders

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by bluething, Apr 22, 2014.

  1. Hello,
    Looking at getting a rebuild on the engine in sprout. Been looking around at recon exhange units and I'd be looking at about £1000 - £1500 for a type 4 2ltr. Does anyone know how much for someone to do a rebuild on my existing lump? Is seems to have good oil pressure but it leaks pretty badly from both ends. Any pointers or advice would be greatly appreciated.
    Cheers
    Dave
     
  2. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Put new seals in both ends?
     
    Silver and 3901mick like this.
  3. Yeah could do I suppose. Really looking at the quickest route for reliability and piece of mind.
     
  4. Its not a crime to take it in somewhere and have the seals replaced you know! No idea on cost though!
     
  5. the seals are easy enough to do yourself & the cheapest option IMO.
     
  6. Put new seals in, unless you have another £1k to add to the £1500 ;)

    I'm currently averaging £2500 per rebuild at the moment... But I am replacing everything apart from the crank, flywheel, con-rods, and the heads, but I am rebuilding the heads with all new parts :eek:
     
    sjhjoinery likes this.
  7. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor


    and the crankcase ;) . I cant really understand why you would buy a new engine to solve an oil leak, my mind is truly bogled
     
    Paul Weeding likes this.
  8. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    You said what we were all thinking!
     
    davidoft likes this.
  9. Because in my experience, as soon as I change something on this unknown engine, something else let's go. It's leaking from the front and rear, barrels to case, and push rods. Yes it's probably easy to change the seals but my fear is that it's breathing heavily which probably points towards rings being worn. The only bit that doesn't leak is the oil cooler. Though now I've said that it will probably spring a leak now :)
    At top whack the motor will get me up to a heady 65mph but sounds like it's screaming so I think it's down on power. All in all I want a base so that I know what I'm dealing with. Might just strip and rebuild it myself. Anyone know the best rebuild manual for a type 4 2ltr??
     
  10. We are waiting for @Paul Weeding to write one. He may be a while though as he is quite busy, then he has to finish off an old Land Rover :lol:
     
    zed and bluething like this.
  11. I'd happily swap, at least I know what to do with landrovers
     
  12. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I had one like that - a 1700, but it was back in the day when you could buy a perfectly sound second hand T4 engine for £150 and that's precisely what I did. Now with prices through the roof I think I'd rebuild it myself, but also as prices are through the roof having someone else rebuild it doesn't add such a large % to the overall price as it did once upon a time.
     
  13. TBH the haynes manual that covers the type 4 does a pretty good job of covering it :)
     
    bluething likes this.
  14. Cheers Paul, I'll have a look.
     
  15. I used the Bently manual ,along with the Haynes and a few others
     
  16. If it runs and works with no obvious nasty noises it can't be all bad. The issue with oil leaks is that once they start to leak then the leak will only get worse. The leaks are kept back by rubber seals and for some reason people assume that they can leave a vehicle laid up for 9 months a year then start the engine and everything will be fine. What actually happens is the seals harden and degrade, start to leak and them rot away.

    Tom Wilson gives all the detail you need for tear down, inspection, repair/refurbish and rebuild. Do it yourself, it's cheap and easy to do. Don't be sucked into buying a £1k eBay special.
    :)
     
    75tintop, bluething and holmsen like this.
  17. That's precisley the route I was heading towards but the mrs said "no!, do it properly! hehe! I'm going to do another compression check this weekend and see what's what. maybe drop the engine to do the seals. the leak from the barrel to case is annoying though, that's going to mean head off and a lot of messing about. first thing is buy a manual and read it i guess.
     
  18. Tom Wilson and Haynes is what I used just take it steady don't rush it if something doesn't quite fit take it off and try again never get the hammer out,
    Steve,
     


  19. Spot on comment :)
     

Share This Page