Ok. Too hot to lie in bed,so… without shims. So which shims shall I order? Bearing in mind, I havnt cleaned the ‘snout’ yet. I’ll do that, then re measure. This is just for a rough idea of which ones to get.
The burr on the crank face mentioned above could be making the flywheel run slightly crooked so all the pressure is uneven on the shims. You can see it's slightly flattened so it has had pressure on it. The rough face on the end of the flywheel represents hot spots where the flywheel could be abrading the shims on the high points. It's been loaded up and run without enough oil for long enough to start melting at some time in the past. It could just be that the rough flywheel surface coupled with a bit of uneven pressure has been abrading the shims. And that roughness from heat means somebody has been riding the clutch for extended periods in the lifetime of the engine or the clutch cable was over tightened.. Maybe time for either a "machining" of the flywheel shim bearing face and fit an extra shim to make up the lost metal, or buy a new flywheel. ( just read your idea of 1200 grade on glass sheet)
This end float, seems to be a problem solely for vw aircooled engines, is it due to the materials used or poor design of the crankcase.?
I managed to find a local vw guy who gave me a couple of each thickness, they only seem to have 0.24 on-line and heritage are on back order can get up to 0.36. Got a new flywheel, clutch kit, Seal and O-ring.
That makes sense, as it he’d more endfloat in one position than if you turn the pulley, in another. Not much mind.So would a light even sanding on the sheet/ glass, clean it up enough? Can’t really get new flywheels and stuff at the moment, as I am ‘financially embarrassed’.
https://www.gsfcarparts.com/parts/transmission/clutch/flywheel £43 @ gsf. If not some P600 wet & dry +WD40 to clean it up but use brake and clutch cleaner afterwards, if you did not tighten the nut up enough prior to running could have caused movement.
Just the relatively soft mag alloy case on type 1s. Clutch operation eventually makes a circular indentation in the case, so the flywheel end bearing can start moving. Takes many thousands of miles to happen, tho', and can be fixed.
Not clear what's happening there, soggsy. The big hand's gone round once, so 0.1mm? With no shims? Flywheel snout: an alternative is to get a new oilstone, like you use for sharping your chisels. Not engineering flat, but pretty damn flat. Use it to lightly dress your snout. Just need to take the high spots off.
Ok. I put the flywheel back on and tightened it with a socket. Not murder tight, but tight. The hand went all the way around once, but on a third attempt, it went around once + 0.4.
And if you turn the flywheel 360, it sort of pops out a bit, then goes back in when I keep turning. Is that normal? Beacuase of lack of shims, I’m guessing.
most engines do have thrust bearings The triumph engines in the spitfire and TR6 I had have had endflloat issues but they were a bit easier to fix as you could replace the shims with the engine in the car by removing the sump.
