Yes. When I drained the oil, I noticed it had a gold sheen to it. I’m thinking it’s from the brass drive on the crank as the timing went out, on the way back from driving it. Is this from for and aft movement?
Ok, where did that come from then? I was thinking that, or the valve guides, but the rocker covers had none in.
Ok. I set the timing and carb up as instructed in Barry’s manual, went for a drive over the Mendips, about 25 or so miles, but coming back, it started popping and farting, missing a bit. Hoping it’s just carb issues, but I did set it as per instructions. Took the big jet off the side of the carb and blew it out, still seemed a bit hit and miss, though. Re gapped the points, too. Just scratching me head now..
Need the van in July, too, as wanted to take my youngest away for his 14th. As I promised him. Need to get it sorted. Thanks for your help, by the way. I am taking it in…
Did you ever at any time turn over the engine with the distributor drive gear in place and no distributor? This causes the steel drive gear to rise up if you turn the engine the wrong way and then it starts chewing the edge off the brass gear on the crank. If it chews badly enough the timing could start suddenly jumping a tooth on the drive gear...and lead to lots of brass in the oil.. This would be user assembly error. It requires a complete strip down to fix .. Been there, done it but had a spare worn out crank available to take the gear off, split the case, replace and carry on. However.. copper is found In the distributor drive gear.. brass.. In the valve guides : bronze.. unlikely to end up in the oil. Perhaps behind the white metal in the main and big end bearings as a copper plated layer on steel(small quantities)
Ok, thanks. I can’t remember if I turned the engine with the drive in and no distributed, to be honest. I did put a new gear on the crank before the build. Im guessing if it jump, it would show by the offset slot not being 90 degrees to the case line? I’m hoping it’s just a bad carb set up, as I messed with the screws a bit, after I re did the valve gaps. It ticks over, just farts and bangs on de acceleration…
It could only jump if the brass gear has been worn down. The popping on deceleration is probably lean running. As I said before your engine sounded a bit lazy when you opened up the throttle. Winding out the mixture screw a touch may liven it up and make it pop less. Lean best idle may be a little too lean.. I have seen this a couple of times at Techenders on different engines.
Thanks, could be a relief. Need some good news.You think I should go ahead, get the flywheel off, and check the shims again, and set to spec, like matty suggested?
You need to make sure the bearing isn't moving in the crankcase. Remove the flywheel (look to see if the bearing has wiped), add shims until you can't rotate the crankshaft – that locks the bearing to the crankshaft. Then see if there is end float, if the bearing is tight there won't be any and you can shim to 0.1mm.
Yes, wiped. If you don't know what a wiped bearing is Google is your friend 'A wiped bearing surface is where surface rubbing, melting and smearing is evident. This may be due to a variety of causes, including: Excessive load at start-up/run-down. Insufficient lubricant.' You have apparently gained 0.11mm of clearance, where has that come from? If the bearing isn't moving either the shims are thinner, or the face of the flywheel has worn or the bearing has wiped or you didn't set it up correctly. You need to find which one.
