I'll say this once more then give up. Put the flywheel back with too many shims so you deliberately lock the flywheel to the bearing. Tight but no need for the full torque. See if you can detect end float now. If you can the bearing is moving. Good luck.
So far so good, the bearing has some minor rubs but looks okay, now check the shims, make sure they're flat and are they the same thickness as they were when you started? And check the thrust face of the flywheel nose, does that still look good?
Sounds good. How were you measuring it? As above, have a look at the "snout" of your flywheel (or post a pic).
With venial gague. I will later. I’m just gonna have a shower, as I have been outside ALL day, and dusty and itchy.
Too much info If you can do it with a dial gauge, so much the better, but does sound like your guy has done it right.
before and after hitting pulley, then flywheel bolt with a rubber mallet. So no movement. It did move about 0.2 first time I tried, but the whole gauge moved on the flywheel.
These are the shims. Picture taken on a piece of glass from underneath and side. All flat. Havnt measured them though, but they look ok…(?) Nothing has been done to the flywheel as far as I know, as it stayed here while the block was away. Bearing in mind, once I got the block back I had to re split it to put the cam and followers back in.
Next step: bolt your flywheel up with no shims, see what you get. That's your starting point for shimming up. That measurement minus 0.1mm gives you total thickness of shimmage necessary. Need to measure your existing ones with a vernier, so you know what you've got, and whether they're enough. PS Forget what I said about the flywheel. I was thinking of the case where you've got too little room to tweak with three shims.
The thrust face looks horrible and from one of the other pics the clutch side is rough too. Has the end of the crankshaft taken a knock, what's that mark just below the dowel on the right? And when you trial fit the shims put them in dry, then once you have the clearance correct, oil the shims and re tighten the gland nut. Final check of the float will be less when you have oil on the shims but obviously the crank must turn freely.
Oh ok. I’ll have a crack tommorow, as the sis in law has just popped in for a game of topless darts, while the wife’s at Zumba classes.
Those shims would be binned if it was my engine. When they're so worn you can't trust them - look at the ring of burnt oil on the middle one? Is it grooved or was the one next to it? They are meant to be super flat slippery things.
