I guess so By the time I became aware of other things I could use that were similar, I'd already started using it Still, live and learn - not going to be stripping it all out now! - and to be fair I haven't noticed a significant negative effect on speed or fuel consumption yet...
Time for an update methinks! Since the last post, what I thought was a minor oil leak resulted in a major engine rebuild including two replacement cylinder heads - ouch! Not having the means to carry out that rebuild myself meant Tortuga went for a holiday - thanks to the boys at Brookside for their work. Since Tortuga's return I've fitted one piece of Dynaliner over the engine compartment and cut a piece of 3mm ply to cover it - including profiling it to fit exactly round the edges. Quite pleased with the result (pics to follow at the weekend). Also bought my 6mm ply for the subfloor and floor - that's this weekend's job sorted!
So, as promised, a photo of the profiled 3mm ply to cover the top of the engine compartment. Apologies for not updating at the weekend, but Tortuga got pressed into service transporting equipment for a Guide Camp. While there the pouring rain revealed the existence of several leaks I'd noticed the presence of water in the past, but hadn't been able to locate where it was getting in; fortunately this time I was able to identify the leaks - through the safari rear window, the rear windows and possibly the LHS window. So instead of spending today cutting up more ply for the sub-floor as planned, I've been pulling out window seals instead! Rust trails under the windows... ...take the window out... ...and this is what we find
Thats not all that bad dude Clean it up with a wire wheel Use a rust converter Then a thick coat of primer When thats dry flat it back and give it a few coats of white
i read with interest your post and safe to say im the same as you. have just bought a van with a good body but nothing inside . ive just spent today rubbing down the engine bay and trying to decide whether to use thin foil loft insulation or not . i guess ill have to glue it on somehow but wondered if u had any feedback on what to use? your project is going well
Thanks Para. I had a trial run on the rhs window. No wire wheel so I ended up using sandpaper followed by Loctite's "Rust Remedy", but tidied everything up before taking a final photo! Seemed to work OK so I'm going to try rattle can primer today - more pics later!
Hah! No, just went a bit overboard on the Dynamat! Got the cab and the rest of the roof to do yet, followed by insulation.
I've used Dynamat (probably more than necessary) to cover the engine bay, bulkhead and every surface that forms part of the outer skin for soundproofing. I'll be covering the engine bay and bulkhead in Dynaliner for heat insulation (and extra soundproofing), but I intend to use closed cell foam silvered on both sides for insulating every other surface, which I'll stick down with double-sided tape and spray glue. Insulation has been a hot topic on here before and it seer to boil down to personal preference and cost. Just do a search on here to see others opinions and arguments. I'm after keeping cool in summer (hence an outward facing shiny surface to reflect heat away from the van), keeping warm in winter (hence an inward facing shiny surface to reflect heat in the van back) and a way to prevent condensation causing rust and rot (hence the closed cell foam) Hope that helps!
So after taking the cover off this morning and having another look at yesterdays work, I decided that I needed to do something about the paint work around where I'd treated the rust as my sanding and chipping of the rust had left a pronounced step in the layers of paint that was never going to easily blend back in Ah well... One quick trip to Halfords resulted in a pack of aluminium oxide and wet and dry papers of various grades, a rubber sanding block and a rattle-can of white primer. Once back home I attacked the rust and paint around the window hole, starting with the coarsest grade of aluminium oxide paper and working up to 800 grit wet and dry, after which I re-applied Rust Remedy to the rusty metalwork around the window frame; Remedied rust; Fully sanded paintwork, ready for primer; Apparently my van was originally red, then mustard yellow, before becoming the cream over turquoise that I bought it as; I've never done anything remotely like this before and wasn't particularly happy with having to damage a paint job that has been on for less than a year (even though this was only ever intended to be a stop-gap paint job). However, it turned out to be easier than I'd expected and the process somehow made the van seem more mine (if that makes any sense). I'm quite pleased with the result even though I couldn't get the primer on today as Rust Remedy needs 24 hours before covering. Flushed with my success, I turned to solving another one of the leaks - the safari rear window. After noticing water seeping around the glass last weekend and being unable to tell whether it was coming around the glass or the frame, I stripped the whole thing down, applied adhesive sealant between the glass and its rubber seal and between the rubber seal and the aluminium frame, screwed the whole thing back together (getting totally covered in adhesive sealant at the same time) and re-attached it to the van; I also fettled up some rubber grommets for where the window fittings (supports, catch plates and hinge) are screwed to the rear door - why these weren't there already, I don't know - and re-attached the seal between the rear door and the safari window frame with yet more adhesive sealant. Hopefully that should stop any water leaking in...
Especially when it's a majorish no-going-back -once-I-start kind of work On a similar note; I'm toying with the idea of returning this rhs window to a panal (it's going to be covered by a wardrobe and I don't need it when driving) - any ideas how I'd go about it anyone? I'm playing the novice without a welder card by the way...
hi there again i have gone mad and bought some dyna mat today)) when you laid yours over the engine bay did you follow the contours or just put it level across please? i havent got it out the box yet! thanks
I followed the contours of the engine bay. It's easier if you apply it in smaller pieces than the full sheet. I also worked from one side to the other using a hard rubber roller to make sure it was completely stuck down.
Wow, thats going to one quiet van. Personally I quite like not being able to hear the kids in the back over the racket made by my bus as we drive along. By the way, as others have said a) your bus looks great, b) this is the place to learn and get encouragement, c) there is no substitute for having a go yourself! The fringe benefit is that the more jobs you do the more the bus feels a part of you and lets face it there is always stuff to do on one of these.
Thanks for all the encouragement and nice comments guys! Didn't have time to sort pictures from this weekend's work yet, but I managed to mask off and lay two coats of primer on the inside of the window hole and one on the outside. Unfortunately rain stopped play, so the rest of the weekend was spent sorting screws so I can finish setting up my workbench.
Managed to get away from work earlier than I imagined today and, since conditions were favourable, I laid down the second coat of primer. Pretty happy with the results, despite the line between primer and paint and a blotch where I accidentally sprayed one place for too long. I assume these issued get sorted out when I sand the primer back prior to painting? Outside; Inside; I've also removed the accelerator linkage as the pedal and linkage were FUBAR'd - heavy use of gaffa tape has been helping supply Tortuga's power - but I didn't manage to get around to fitting the replacement bits today. Yes, a PO has used a shed hasp as the hinge for the pedal...
New accelerator pedal and linkage is in (sortof). I need some longer screws to fully fasten down and test. Happy with t he pedal position, but there doesn't seem enough movement to allow full range of the accelerator...
