Engine out etc will be over his budget. He wants to try driving to home to Brighton with the receding valves rather than fix it. The silencer is AT LEAST 18 years old and he would have liked me to weld it up, but it was so shot it wouldn't be cost effective. I think that's already blown his budget. If he'd maintained it/looked into why his brakes went rubbish (8" piece of pipe) and tightened the HX back onto the head none of this would have happened. There's a lesson there.
I don't think they would prove to be rigid enough? Maybe weld some plates to spread the load, but then Me, rather than Empi will get the blame when they leak. Sometimes trying to help can get you into a pickle innit.
With hindsight I should have ignored the lumpy running, fixed the servo pipe, fitted a new silencer and waved him off. I hink he'd have been happy then too, but maybe not so if it went bang on the way home - he would be bound to at least suspect that was my fault somehow. Which in a way it would have been - hole in servo pipe and lumpy running = receding valve seats. I know that so I had a look see how bad it was and clip broke. These rocker covers have scabby rust and no sign of bales being used. I doubt the gaps have been checked for a decade.
I think you can ...is there a threaded hole on the rocker shafts .. iam sure i have seen those flash covers on a type 4 .
They fit with long nuts on top f or replacing the rocker shaft nuts and bolts through the covers into those. The problem with them compared to the simple effective bales is when the cork compresses, the bales take up the slack but the bolt on ones leak or need constant tightening.
Is ther absolutely nothing you can get onto at all. Done a couple of seized ones in the past with heat and penetrating fluid and some grips and giving it a gentle wiggle till it starts moving.
Apart from pulling engine and removing said broken bit you only have limited options ,fit a alloy cover which are very poor or fro a bodge and considering the head is knackered you could drill and tap the steel one directly on to the head with a series of M4 bolts around the perimeter ...bit of silicone and it will get him home ..
Come on a man of your calibre should be able to bodge this !!! Another quick fix if the hole is blocked ....If you have a spare bale and a welder you could extend the one end of the bale so it fits further back behind the hole , the casting returns providing a lip ..you may have to file a smal V to keep bale in the middle ...doable ,not great but still ??
Can't see it or even get a finger in and I have thin fingers, so would probably be quicker and less frustrating to drop the engine down, remove fan housing, remove oil cooler, remove heat exchanger and the stove pipe and get at it that way, but what a palaver! Added to that any steel/steel fixings along the way will shear off. And going that far would make it the time to replace the other head, but then we're back to budget says no. Think I might have to put it in the car park for a bit.
Back to crappy bolt on cover I think. Barely any fitting time at all, just cost of the cover (s). Good for him at least and mee too if I'm honest, it's MOT and service time of the year and buses are starting to pile up due to a couple of emergency jobs.
If the T4 head has a boss where the b Or weld a bit of tube to the end of the bale so it hooks over the boss with the broken off bit in it on the cylinder head.
