That's the idea!! It stops a sudden pressure drop when the valve opens... even the 4 branch valve that the usual suppliers sell is always slightly open!!
Thanks guys. Feels like I'm starting to sort of understand things. This will make for a much neater install than a separate valve. I read somewhere that the barbs with hose clips aren't ideal and should really get crimped hoses. Anyone got a link to where I could get some? I suppose I should set it up with the barbs to get the hose length right and then measure and order.
Best option is a hydraulic hose firm... normally somewhere that services tractors will have the ability to make up hoses!! Or if you fancy some bling, then there is www.speedflow.co.uk or www.thinkauto.com
I also thought it stopped cold oil shock - if you have a completely isolated oil cooler full of stone cold oil, which when the valve opens then suddenly there's stone cold oil going into a hot engine - can't be good.......
Never ever ever use the barbs and hose clips. I learnt this the hard way when my full flow sprung a leak. Fortunately I was not moving very quickly when it did so I stopped immediately I realised. Find a local power steering hose maker to make up some proper crimped ended hoses. Not cheap, but worth it.
There's that too The valves are slow opening, so it wouldn't be a sudden rush of cold oil, but you are right!!
as far from bling as I can get. Will ask the Father in Law as we have 3 tractors here on the farm so he will have a contact.
Can't see anydrawbacks to this at all....why aren't they recommended as standard when you go full flow?
It does sound like it diverts some oil away from the cooler. Interesting. I've got a scoop on my cooler with a flap to block off the air flow. It's opereated by a cable connected to the cold lever on the dash. I leave it closed off almost all the time, but if the engine gets a bit warm I open it. The cooler does still cool the oil wherever the flap is, so it's effect seems similar to the sandwhich plate but I like the heath-robinson style of my set-up.
sounds like a good bodge..... (by bodge, I mean well-executed improvement on standard.....rather than a Lash-up)
You should go from the case through the stat and back to the case, thats the stat circuit. The far side of the stat then goes into the filter into the cooler and back to the stat. Stats are designed to protect not only your engine from being cooled too much but also the filter from high pressure thick cold oil. This is the way they are meant to work, hence the sandwich plates, but its completely upto you you can if feel you want to go via the filter before the stat you will need to run a top notch filter like a fram HP1 rather than the cheaper golf filters which fit. The HP1 deal with much higher pressures and have an internal valve.
Ahh good old Think Automotive, I love and hate that place. When I put the 2276cc engine in my van I intsalled a new fuel system including a Holley fuel pump and all the full flow and the breather hoses and fittings and spent about £900 in one go. Its not a cheap thing to do but once done it's done for life. I will obviously need to change the fuel lines at some stage but will be able to reuse the fittings. I would tend to lean in this direction rather than crimped lines as these can be made at home to your exact lengths and also can be reapired yourself when needs be, rather than being dependant on someone else coming out to fix things make things for you. Does look the nuts too!
It's not often that I disagree with you, but if you do that, then you are running unfiltered oil until the oil gets up to 80/90°c... and if your external oil cooler does a really good job, then the stat valve will be opening and closing with the oil temp fluctuations!! Kinda negates the whole installing an oil filter in the first place!! If you are having issues with filters popping, then you need to assess the oil pressure relief valve as that could be sticking, or you've installed too big of an oil pump (over 26mm) Only time I've every had a filter pop is when the pressure relief valve jammed
You suggested the sandwich plate, they bypass the filter till the oil reaches operating temps That is the offical way of doing things and the reason a sandwich plate exists. I agree completely with your thinking though and dont think it's wise to run things unfiltered. I dont run a stat at all but I will sit for 5 mins or so with the van at 1200rpm just bringing the engine up to temp before moving off. Only ever popped filters when using the cheap golf filters in the first 500 miles when built, when everything is at its tightest and oil pressure at its highest, oh and it was Novemember and zero degree's outside.
Do they?? TBH I've not fitted one... I'll have to get one and have a look, but that seems a little daft to me!!
This is why I'm confused: ideally, you'd want oil to be passing through the filter regardless of temp...so I get the impression that the stat merely works as a 'shut off' valve to prevent cold oil passing through the cooler 'loop'....once up to temp. the stat remains open......the oil temp's not going to be cycling around 80 degrees (regulated by the stat opening/closing) -under normal driving conditions, so the whole point of the stat is to prevent hi pressure/low temp oil reaching the cooler....faster warm-up Think I need to go back to Dub school and swot up on full flow/dual relief.....there's more to this than meets the eye
Yep...this got me....but looking at the pic, it would appear that the supply to the filter is available from the get go.....the bypass valve closes and diverts oil to the cooler unless I'm completely arse about tit
