Subaru conversion start

Discussion in 'Modified Shizzle' started by pkrboo, Mar 27, 2017.

  1. The rjes bit is ok, I'm just probably over thinking it but I expected more of the VW orig wiring but I guess not.
     
  2. Oh the fuel breathers? Yes I blocked the right one as it goes to the inlet manifold so blocked it just in case. The other one is just a link from right to left on the engine so I left it open
     
    pgtips likes this.
  3. No there actually isn't much VW wiring
     
    pgtips likes this.
  4. been doing a few bits, took out the air filter bracket (which I would recommend you remove before engine install as lot of swarf).
    I left it thinking I might make use of it but its a PITA and in the way.
    A good tool to do this is a oscillating saw like this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-23038-250W-Oscillating-Multi-Tool/dp/B00AY04JZS , they cut metal, plastic etc and blades are not expensive if you shop around. Like they use to remove plaster casts etc, cut anything except your skin (not that I tried to much)
    air filter bracket.jpg

    I also couldn't work out how pkrboo fixed expansion tank but i had some bits kicking around, 15mm std house copper pipe, a couple of pipe wall clips, some bits of metal I cut and bent, fastener, a gate bracket and some paint (remember blue peter lol)
    bits-needed.jpg
    bend the bracket and add a popper, the bracket fixes to the firewall in the engine bay and can swing to allow access
    bent-bracket.jpg

    everything in place before painting it
    in-situ.jpg
    looks nice, won't go anywhere.
    final finished.jpg
    top view just before it was painted. Fits a treat, doesn't move left or right, up or down, easy to remove if necc.
    finished.jpg
    Prob about £10 in bits, like everything its time
    PG
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2018
    art b, Valveandy and pkrboo like this.
  5. if you get stuck on parts and have time a lot of UK sellers get stuff from abroad.

    I had a lot of probs with the 38mm t piece (38/38/25) and after a month had to cancel the order but found same bits were on aliexpress and cheaper !

    It takes a while to arrive so order in advance but they are pretty reliable.

    for example
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/28m...32702708037.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.yob4Ju

    I got the connection on the other side with the screw in for about £3
     
  6. Do you have a pic of your exhaust from the rear? Just wondered how it protrudes
     
  7. I'll see what I can find. It looks pretty stock tbh
     
  8. I was wondering how low any of it is, as I’m lowered....
     
  9. Fairly low. Nick tune and his mate are doing an exhaust soon. They just need to run it to iron out any issues.

    Look in the FB group

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    art b likes this.
  10. Looks like that sits low, presumably because of the engine mount bar.

    My exhaust use to sit just below the bumper.
     
  11. I'll do some better pics tonight
     
    Razzyh likes this.
  12. Hi,

    I'm starting my coolant plumbing up tomorrow but while checking my pipes I 'found' my brake booster pipe. Did you have one pkrboo and if so where did you connect in to get the vacuum (or a recommendation)

    PG
     
  13. Yes, on to the inlet manifold. There is a large stub for it to go on.
     
    pgtips likes this.
  14. This one ? (looks most likely)

    20180116_170115.jpg
     
  15. getting stuck into the hoses, replaced all my fuel pipes.

    While I was figuring out the run from the engine to the rads I took lots of notes as its quite tricky so hopefully this might help somebody. There's lots of ways I'm sure but this was how I did it, it might help as a template.
    You have to go through the rear axle to get to the rad without kinking the coolant hose.

    This is from scratch. I didn't have any bits so made a list, bought some bits, then did some more and so on and eventually I get a complete list. I'd say rough cost appx £100 all in incl jubilee clips (45cm+) etc + other hoses in the engine and fuel lines etc. You will need to cut (shorten) a couple of the long straights but this list does the lot.

    The beaded straights are these
    http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/cu...8mm-choose-your-length-end-bead-optional.html
    I ordered (all beaded)
    38mm - Custom Alloy Straight Hose Joiner - 950mm AHJ 950 038 1
    38mm - Custom Alloy Straight Hose Joiner - 300mm AHJ 300 038 2
    38mm - Custom Alloy Straight Hose Joiner - 600mm AHJ 600 038 2
    38mm - Custom Alloy Straight Hose Joiner - 250mm AHJ 250 038 1
    All the rubber bends on ebay were about £7.50

    From water pump side, in sequence
    water pump to
    > straight rubber hose appx 110cm
    > 38/38/25 alloy T piece
    > 90 deg rubber bend
    > alloy beaded straight
    > 45 deg rubber bend x 2 over axle
    > alloy long straight
    > 38mm rubber pipe join 20cm long or use 45 deg above
    > alloy long straight
    > into the 90 deg rad reducer (on earlier pkrboo parts list for RJES rad)
    Pump Side
    1 waterpump.jpg
    underneath shot
    2 underneath shot from water pump side.jpg
    long straight above engine support bar and above drive shaft
    3 through drive shaft and support bar underneath from pump.jpg
    can squeeze above axle where rear heater cable would have gone (I cut mine out for more room, you can just see it on the left and petrol filter is above out the way)
    4 pump side can squeeze above axle 45deg.jpg
    another angle coming out with 45 deg bend
    5 and out from axle pump side 45 deg into long straight.jpg
    ...................final 2 pics in next post as limit of 10 images per post

    Other side
    Engine>
    > 90 deg rubber bend
    > 38/38/16 npt T piece
    > 90 deg bend
    > alloy small straight
    > 90 deg rubber
    > alloy small straight (tbc/not bought yet but possible use an offcut or appx 120cm)
    > 90 deg rubber bend
    > alloy long straight
    > 38mm rubber pipe join 20cm long
    > alloy smaller straight
    > into the 90 deg rad reducer

    non pump side
    1 non pump side1.jpg
    looking back to the engine
    2 non pump side looking back to engine.jpg
    2 90deg elbows with small straight and longer straight
    3 shows 2x 90deg elbows and straight.jpg
    couldn't get between axle and body on this side
    4 above axle not possible on one side.jpg
    then finally into the rad
    5 non pump side long straight into the rad.jpg

    PG
    Heater matrix host 16 mm is not shown.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2018
    Kruger and art b like this.
  16. final 2 pics from the water pump side
    the 45 deg, beaded straight into the rad 90 elbow
    6 45 deg into rad 90 elbow.jpg
    and a different angle showing the same
    7 different angle same as 6 pump side long straight into rad.jpg
    Heater matrix host 16 mm is not shown.

    PG
    p.s in all i'd say buy about 20 jubilee clips, lot of clamping + a couple spares will help as 2 of mine were rubbish. Avoid cheap ebay ones, they are truly Marmite.
     
  17. How far back/forward does the rad sit? I’ve not got any pre-drilled holes.
     
  18. The lip on the front of the rad sits over the front cross member and you can work it from there
     
    Razzyh likes this.
  19. couple of pics as mines easy to get at moment, I haven't shrunk them too much so they open full size.

    side view, wheel you see is front
    rad from side.jpg
    and a closer shot to the lip/crossmember.
    rad closer.jpg
     
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