Subaru conversion start

I just made one for a customer's T25, using a manifold like that eBay one, and a forester back box. The back box actually had enough pipe and bends on it to be able to cut it up and re shape it to fit down the left side. I can't remember if I got a finished photo or not, but will post it up if I did. The sound was just right as well, not to shouty, but a nice rasp when you floored it.

 

I'd really appreciate that (pic).
thank you

 

Just had a look on my laptop, and it seems I didnt get a finished photo before he picked it up.. But here a couple of in progress shots..

 

The silencer ended up behind the rear wheel, with the tailpipe exiting the rear just under the bumper, though this was on a T25, so not sure if there is enough room on a bay there. On my bay, I ran a straight pipe with a small cheery bomb type silencer down the left of the van, then a 90 degree bend, which then ran under the bumper to a Mondo type silencer. Just another thought.. I also used the original subaru steel manifold on my bay, rather than a stainless ebay job, as it is easy to modify to suit a lowered bus.

 

to distract me from the exhaust I thought I'd get on with the final bit of the heater install. I wanted to find somewhere unobtrusive, it could have gone in the cab but I think I found a better home for it.

I've got the rjes rad pack which bolts onto the chassis rails. I've also got the heater @pkrboo mentioned a few posts back.
the rad has a 'roof' so there is a gap of 5.5cm between the floor of the bus and the bottom of the rail and as luck would have it the heater is 4.5cm. It fits perfectly and the outputs can feed directly into the existing heater outlets. I plan 1 for the step and 2 feeding into the demister cab heater (so anyone know of a sensible price y bend 55/55/90 let me know, needs to be a proper Y)

I ran 5 meters of 16mm coolant hose cut in half along the side of the rad then into the gap over the top of the chassis rail (there is a nice gap).
You only need 5meters but because of the angles you also need a bit more so order 5.5 meters and a 16mm right angle like these (x2 obviously) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301112153606 and then use the spare 0.5m hose to join using 2 of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ASH-Metal...var=490180571971&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
A neater way would have been 2 x right angle alloy pipes but they are double the price.

Goes in a treat, is neat and out of the way. I also put some sound deadening underneath to absorb vibration.

The switch has 4 wires but no wiring diagram, can you help with this @pkrboo. I see it draws 10amps so I guess 15 fuse with 16 wire is ok. red, black and 2 x colours, what feeds to the colours or is it (for a 3 speed) earth and split +ve ?

PG

 

There should be a wiring diagram label stuck in the heater also look at the the website at the switch as it has the outputs on that diagram too.

 

I missed them, thanks

 

Heater

https://www.t7design.co.uk/products/heating/heaters/compact-cab-heater-12v.html

Switch

https://www.t7design.co.uk/products...tches/heater-fan-switch-with-rotary-knob.html

If I remember I wired 12v into B and then connected the others to the L,M,H then to the heater. Ignored C as didn't want a light

 

Did this tonight:

All just to find out that the sealant I used has failed, probably because it wasn't the right type.

I thought it was the input shaft seal so I ordered one and fitted it anyway even though it hadn't been leaking.

So hopefully I can get new sealant tomorrow and be rolling again by Sunday!!

 

Love this thread Matt, going to be referring it to when I start on mine - was meant to be happening this week, but need to finish off some loose end jobs on other vans I'd started but not finished - need to go into this with a clean slate, otherwise it'll never get done. Got 90% of the bits now - just engine gasket set and gearbox output stub axle seals to get I think.

 

Change the input shaft seal too, to be on the safe side

 

I'm using a new gearbox!

 

Oh right, didn't realise you had got a new one. Where from? Got a pic?

 

Got one from Subaru directly, from their parts warehouse in West Brom, paid £360 I think, it's a later 758 gearbox, 2008, from a diesel so hoping it'll be ok with a petrol engine, ratios are almost identical to the others and my understanding is the rear diff provides the lower/higher gearing between diesel/turbo models.

Output stub axles need transferring from an earlier 754, So I've picked up a dual range 754 to pillage, spoke to Nick and he said he's done a couple this way with no probs.




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Yep that's the way to do it. Put the 754 output flanges onto the new box with new 754 diff output seals.

 

So , three bond 1215 sealant ordered. Hopefully I can get it back together and back in the bus the same day the sealant arrives. (Hopefully Tuesday)

 

is there 10 of you or something, it take me about 2 weeks just to fit a bloody heater

 

I did have my mate passing me tools but it isn't that hard, I have had that gearbox together and apart over 30 times I reckon, when I was building it. Could whip it apart in my sleep now.

 

this might help someone, i was really thrown by the simple wiring and ended up calling T7 design. Its all obvious but I mis read, on the heater diagram it says blue 24v, black 12v, so I thought oh ok its got a live feed to the heater 12 or 24v.... but they are actually the earths (which also threw me "where are they sorta thing") there's a tiny '-' in front.
Yeah I know black is earth but ....

 

I can strip and rebuild an engine but wiring is another language on a different planet to me - I feel your pain
Have my loom and heater to install too this weekend with any luck