Steering box is scary

Excellent. You know already , but when putting it back on don't forget to line up the index mark with "L" or "R" on the drop arm, or your steering will be...strange.

 

I have a snazzy moto-lita wheel …but I do recall just about destroying the plastic while removing the original. Have to be ultra careful with this metal boss thing

 

I use an eBay bearing puller set on the steering wheel, with the central bolt pressing on an old socket on top of the loosened steering wheel retaining nut.
The back side of the two plates shown behind the bearing in this picture is flat, so I put that side up under the wheel..
The indicator cancel tab goes in the gap.

 

Nice idea...maybe I'll wait until TE to do it !!

 

I got the puller tool from butty's bits. Not took the wheel off again since buying it but it looks like a good idea

https://www.buttysbits.com/?product=bb-059-steering-wheel-puller-tool-splitscreen-or-baywindow-t2


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Can you tell me what the ID & OD of that puller plate is please. Will check it against the sizes on my adapter boss...

 

80mm outer and 37mm inner

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Does anyone have the facility to make a thick washer similar to this with a 110 OD ?
I have to clear a larger boss with the 3 puller legs ...

 

Sometimes depending on how tightly it was done up, if you loosen the nut, and pull up firmly on opposite sides of the steering wheel in a rocking motion, it will come off after a few tens of seconds of pulling.
Take care not to bend a metal spoked wheel, the stock wheels seem quite happy if you pull up at the ends of the spokes.

 

Might be worth contacting them, they make everything in house so might not be a big job to do a wider version

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Or an engineering firm with a laser steel sheet cutter.

The eBay bearing puller set is £26-£31 to give a price comparison for a custom cut piece of metal.

 

What would the thickness need to be though, as pulling on a bigger diameter would bend it?

 

A cheaper option would be a 1" slip on pipe flange, a 150 class flange would give an od of 108mm and will have a 35mm (ish) hole in the middle. You would just need to hacksaw the flange to make the centre hole into a slot. https://www.valvestubesfittings.com/ansi-150-forged-carbon-steel-raised-face-slip-on-flange-dn25

 

At 14.2mm for the boss in the middle of that flange, its too thick to go between the wheel and the switch housing...

 

I was thinking about 5mm... I've got both sides of the switch housing dangling already...can probably be anything up to 50mm thick!!

 

Being a bit dumb this week I guess, I work for oil services comapny we should have flanges laying around all over the place...

 

Looks like the mounting bolts have been over torqued a little bit in the past. Some slight dishing of the top holes to knock out I think

 

Mind you its better too tight than slightly loose..

I dont think there is much you can do as the holes have stiffening tubes swaged in between the sides of the chassis member to take the force.. otherwise just torqueing the bolts would crush the chassis member.

 

There's supposed to be a tube inside to prevent that - like the others. Perhaps it's rattling around inside the chassis?