Nice work bud they fit good don't they them rear corners, fitted 2 on mine and was well pleased with the end results
cheers for the comments guys, love the rear corners, fits so well, cant really believe that i did it ??? got busy with the seam sealer today and gunked over all my weldy bits, alse decided to have a sort out of all by bits and bobs and get everything loosly assembled so i dont loose anything. moving onto the engine now, plan is to get it onto a engine stand, give it a clean, replace a few perished hoses, sling it in and see if it runs, any ideas of the best way to lift an engine alone, have the use of a hoist but dont know where to lift from may even have to make a temp loom up to run it, my loom is in a very poor state, i want to check and repair it before i put any power through it
the engine is out, ended up sitting it ontop of my tool box as i just couldnt get it to fit on the engine stand, i stripped the tins off and inlet manifolds etc. found thes living under the right hand tins 2 spark plug sockets and a spare plug, i needed a new plug socket so im happy. bet that rattled around when it was running lol i gave the cylinder cooling fins a brush out, cleaned the crud off the crank case and tins and a coat of satin plack where it was suffering from a little but of rust, i need to replace the thermostat cable as that has snapped and the spark plug holes in the tin wear are missing so ill be replacing those, also replaced all of the breather and vac hoses, currently sourcing new braded fuel hoses and then it will be time to fitting it and seeing if it will run, i also collected some more ebay goodies £16 delivered for 3, another bargian, this was the worst mirror, after i attacked half of it with brasso its still a little pitted but looks shed loads better than it did before
I suggest you avoid braided fuel hoses unless you (or the supplier) know exactly what is under the braiding – and avoid any supplier that doesn’t know but says the hose he sells is suitable for all fuels. Use grade SAE J30R9, or better still Gates Barricade, if you can find it. http://www.gates.com/europe/brochure.cfm?brochure=12647&location_id=19079
The stuff I'll be using is propper fuel hose, so it should be ok. Iv got it now but I will look into that stuff, I want to use the best stuff and really want to steer clear of any possibilities of it catching fire Been having a major sort out of all the bits and bobs that the PO had taken off, Found 2 mirrors and 2 wiper arms, should have looked through all my things before I went shopping on eBay lol but now I have spares so I can pick the best bits. My thermostat cable arrived today so I'll fit that tomorrow and get the engine somewhere near the engine bay The wiring in the bus is horrific, every where I look there are wires disconnected bits added scotch locks and bullet connectors. I'm not prepared to connect any of that up untill Iv sorted some of the connections out. Here's my plan for the loom to run the engine Does that look like it will work??
Looks fine to me markey, common improvement is to insert relay close to starter to switch on solenoid so that you get good current on starting plus your ignition switch will last longer.
I'd say if the mechanical pump works, use it. It will have the right volume and pressure etc. Your bus is looking great, keep up the great work. I always figure, one part sorted at a time is a part sorted , and on to the next. After a while you're be out of parts and things to sort and all that will be left is to drive it!!!
Thanks midmusq I really can't wait to have a go at driving it, it has been getting a little testy lately though. The mechanical pump does look a bit gummed up so i might put a in line filter after the pump as well as Infront to stop the gunk getting into the carbs, plus I'll be able to see if the fuel pump is working as the filters I have are clear Partly the fact that I didn't take the engine out so I'm not 100% sure how it all goes back together, plus it's starting to get colder and darker outside making indoors on the sofa much more appealing, Iv come up with a temp solution to for the M7 nut, been searching all the local screwfix toolstation etc and have got nowhere, I can order some online but that will be holding me up quite a bit. I found a M7 tap and a M6 nut, hey presto I now have a M7 nut albeit a little bit small across the flats but I'm sure it will do just to test the engine,
I'd be more curious as to what happened to the other nut. It must have been there to start, I'd be looking down the rocker tubes with a light. If it's not at the valve cover it may have found it's way part way down a tube, or maybe even in the block. I can't see the motor running for long once those came off so, unless the OP took the valve cover off and it dropped out at in his shop, it must could be waiting to shorten up your first run.
I've read that it is not good putting fuel filter after pump as it can leak. I might be wrong but I don't want u to pump fuel over your lovely type IV engine!
Don't' forget there is a small wire screen on the side of the mechanical pump. It well need a cleaning or at least a check up.
I had similar problems in the roof sections of my bus In the end i re-roofed my bus but mine was a lot worse than yours On mine the roof panel had split in places from the stress of have the viking top opened and closed, when i come to refit the roof i will be using some better fixings than just pop rivets
